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Routes in Ryan's Wall

12c for a day S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Breaking the Law S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Business Before Pleasure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Callisto S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cherche La Femme S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cinnamon Groove S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cold Beer in the River S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Despicable Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Domestic Bliss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gainfully Unemployed S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Get in The Van S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Golden Khan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Highway 99 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hull Yeah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hurt Locker, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kate Moss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lockjaw S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Luna Park S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Manfully Endowed S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Meridian S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Misha's Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Reimer Reason S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Paradigm Drift S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Paradigm Shift S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pocket Cyclops S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Serendipity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shoe Phone S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Van Halem S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
Page Views: 135 total, 1/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Jul 4, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Respect the small area that may still be signed off. Details

Description

The first (from left to right as you look at the crag) of a 'Trifecta' of long (40m) routes at Newhalem. This is an athletic climb up a steep chimney feature. Thug through blocky climbing in a steep hanging slot. A crux lies in wait somewhere at the end, slapping up a blunt feature on opposing sidepulls. The only drawback to Hurt Locker is that it's simple and more intuitive to climb to the right and onto Meridian at the top, thus bypassing the crux moves. However, it's also possible and more intuitive to end Meridian at the jug atop Hurt Locker, so the climbs provide some slight variations to one another. If you really must contrive greater difficulty, skip the move right to the Meridian rest and move straight into the crux feature. Better yet, one could stay left and bear hug the left arete, providing a more difficult finish to the route.

Location

Just left of where the trail meets the crag, a line of bolts divides into two lines around a large, ominous block. The left is the start of a three pitch route, "Cold Beer in the River", while the right ("Domestic Bliss, .11a") climbs straight up the scary block and trends right. The Hurt Locker continues above this right variation. 80m rope for full descent, but with some annoyance a 70m can be used to lower to the "Domestic Bliss" anchors.

Protection

Bolts. Top part mostly has fixed draws, but you will need a quickdraw or two and possible one shoulder length sling for it. The bottom part has about 12 bolts. Slings are useful on the bottom part to mitigate rope drag higher up. Fixed anchor/lowering station on top.

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Amazing, beautiful, long(!) pitch with great stone up high. I too found it hard to stay on the arete after the rest and chain draw shared with Meridian. Stepping over to Meridian and back left to the anchor made for a continuous mid-5.12 version. Keep a couple draws on you, even when you hit the long steep section of fixed draws. You'll need them again at the top. The boulder problem staying on the arete at the very end felt desperate! Jun 22, 2015
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
This is true. It's slighty contrived to do the 'direct' ending because I seem to remember that it's possible climb over to the rest on Meridian at the large hold before the end. I think it's fair to just average the grade down based on how someone would climb it via the most intuitive line. Feb 7, 2014
kimmo
  5.12c/d
kimmo  
  5.12c/d
the top was a little strange. for me the natural tendency was to go a bit right at the top, which put me into Meridian. This method probably avoided the crux, which is why it felt easier than what people seem to be calling it. Jul 16, 2013