Type: Sport, 140 ft (42 m)
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
Page Views: 644 total · 5/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Jul 4, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure March 1st to approximately July 15th each year; climbing outside approved CMAs strictly prohibited Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details

Description

The first (from left to right as you look at the crag) of a 'Trifecta' of long (40m) routes at Newhalem. This is an athletic climb up a steep chimney feature. Thug through blocky climbing in a steep hanging slot. A crux lies in wait somewhere at the end, slapping up a blunt feature on opposing sidepulls. The only drawback to Hurt Locker if it can be described as such is that it's way more intuitive to climb to the right and onto Meridian at the top instead of tackling the blunt arete more directly. However, it's also possible and more intuitive to end Meridian at the jug atop Hurt Locker, so the climbs provide some slight variations to one another. If you really must contrive greater difficulty, skip the move right to the Meridian rest and move straight into the crux feature.

Location

Just left of where the trail meets the crag, a line of bolts divides into two lines around a large, ominous block. The left is the start of a three pitch route, "Cold Beer in the River", while the right ("Domestic Bliss, .11a") climbs straight up the scary block and trends right. The Hurt Locker continues above this right variation. 80m rope for full descent, but with some annoyance a 70m can be used to lower to the "Domestic Bliss" anchors.

Protection

Bolts. Top part mostly has fixed draws, but you will need a quickdraw or two and possible one shoulder length sling for it. The bottom part has about 12 bolts. Slings are useful on the bottom part to mitigate rope drag higher up. Fixed anchor/lowering station on top.

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