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Routes in Ryan's Wall
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12c for a day S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Breaking the Law S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Business Before Pleasure S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Callisto S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cherche La Femme S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cherche La Femme Extension S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cinnamon Groove S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cold Beer in the River S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Despicable Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Despicable You S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Domestic Bliss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gainfully Unemployed S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Get in The Van S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Golden Khan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Highway 99 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hull Yeah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hurt Locker, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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I Take the Blame S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kate Moss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lockjaw S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Luna Park S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Manfully Endowed S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Meridian S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Misha's Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Reimer Reason S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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OSX S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Paradigm Drift S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Paradigm Shift S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Pocket Cyclops S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Prometheus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Serendipity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shoe Phone S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Steeple Chase S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Van Halem S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | Patrick O'Donnell |
| Page Views: | 1,023 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Drewsky on Jul 4, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure March 1st to approximately July 15th each year; climbing outside approved CMAs strictly prohibited
Details
Sport climbing outside the four established climbing areas (Diablo Crag, Newhalem East and West, and Town Crags) within North Cascades National Park Service Complex is prohibited. As outlined in the Ross Lake National Recreation Area General Management Plan, sport climbing is only allowed in designated climbing management areas and park staff will review any proposed new climbing management areas. Learn more at nps.gov/noca/learn/news/tem…
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Learn more at accessfund.org/news-and-eve… and check back for updates.
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Learn more at accessfund.org/news-and-eve… and check back for updates.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect
Details
2021 Press release: kgmi.com/news/007700-park-s…
Description
The first (from left to right as you look at the crag) of a 'Trifecta' of long (40m) routes at Newhalem. This is an athletic climb up a steep chimney feature. Thug through blocky climbing in a steep hanging slot. A crux lies in wait somewhere at the end, slapping up a blunt feature on opposing sidepulls. The only drawback to Hurt Locker if it can be described as such is that it's way more intuitive to climb to the right and onto Meridian at the top instead of tackling the blunt arete more directly. However, it's also possible and more intuitive to end Meridian at the jug atop Hurt Locker, so the climbs provide some slight variations to one another. If you really must contrive greater difficulty, skip the move right to the Meridian rest and move straight into the crux feature.
Location
Just left of where the trail meets the crag, a line of bolts divides into two lines around a large, ominous block. The left is the start of a three pitch route, "Cold Beer in the River", while the right ("Domestic Bliss, .11a") climbs straight up the scary block and trends right. The Hurt Locker continues above this right variation. 80m rope for full descent, but with some annoyance a 70m can be used to lower to the "Domestic Bliss" anchors.
Photos
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