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Routes in Ryan's Wall

12c for a day S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Breaking the Law S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Business Before Pleasure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Callisto S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cherche La Femme S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cherche La Femme Extension S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cinnamon Groove S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cold Beer in the River S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Despicable Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Despicable You S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Domestic Bliss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gainfully Unemployed S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Get in The Van S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Golden Khan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Highway 99 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hull Yeah S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hurt Locker, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kate Moss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lockjaw S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Luna Park S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manfully Endowed S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Meridian S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Misha's Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Reimer Reason S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
OSX S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Paradigm Drift S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Paradigm Shift S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pocket Cyclops S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Prometheus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Serendipity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shoe Phone S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Steeple Chase S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Van Halem S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
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Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: Ryan Triplett
Page Views: 753 total · 8/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Jul 4, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Respect the small area that may still be signed off. Details

Description

The second of the long route 'Trifecta' at Newhalem. Start on .12c For a Day. Above the anchors, do a ridiculous awkward mantle and pull onto the hanging slab. Trend right up the ramp/slab as for Callisto, but before the anchor for Cinnamon Groove break up and left through the headwall above. Steep, continuous climbing with a couple of harder moves thrown in for good measure brings one to a no-hands rest at a flake. Pull through a few harder moves above the rest and battle through the redpoint crux pulling into the upper groove to the anchor. This difficult two move boulder problem is a bit contrived as it can be avoided simply by reaching left to the giant jug on Hurt Locker and clipping the anchor for that climb. This provides a slightly easier variation.

Location

Again: 80m rope required for full descent to the ground, but a 70m will work if one stops and pulls through at a lower station.

Protection

Bolts. 10 or so on the lower section, then perhaps 10 on the upper. Many of the bolts on .12c for a Day are close together and draws can easily be backcleaned. Using shoulder length slings on the first two bolts after leaving the ramp is highly useful for avoiding heinous rope drag, as is skipping or backcleaning the two previous bolts on the ramp. Currently the anchor is two pieces of old static rope with 'biners. The rope has been there for awhile so use caution or bring some chain and quick links along. The final bolt on the right wall of the groove and the Metolius rap hanger anchor above it may be a variation finish but are not part of the normal route.

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kimmo
  5.12c/d
kimmo  
  5.12c/d
fun climbing, although the crux seemed to be clipping the chains. not sure how this could be remedied. Jul 16, 2013
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
Yes, the anchor clip on this is a pain. I remember the anchor being sort of above and behind me while I clipped it and it was extremely awkward. Feb 7, 2014

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