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Routes in Ryan's Wall

12c for a day S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Breaking the Law S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Business Before Pleasure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Callisto S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cherche La Femme S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cinnamon Groove S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cold Beer in the River S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Despicable Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Domestic Bliss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gainfully Unemployed S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Get in The Van S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Golden Khan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Highway 99 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hull Yeah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hurt Locker, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kate Moss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lockjaw S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Luna Park S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Manfully Endowed S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Meridian S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Misha's Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Reimer Reason S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Paradigm Drift S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Paradigm Shift S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pocket Cyclops S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Serendipity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shoe Phone S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Van Halem S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Description

The rock is a gneiss (metamorphosed granitic rock) that is both solid and beautiful, offering quality aesthetic lines of 5.9 through 5.13 in difficulty. The crag faces west and south, tucked into the bottom of a wooded, steep valley, just north of the highway.
Respect the small area that may still be signed off. Details

Getting There

Coming from the west, pass through town to the electrical substation at the end of town and on the right. Park here, and walk for a few minutes up the road, heading further out of town. The crag is just off the road, on the north (left) side.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ryan's Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
The Goodell Fire passed through this area in late August; Ryan's Wall got burned out, as with much of that valley. We scoped it out last week and the climbing had been cordoned off by the Parks. Parks noted they were going to be sending a crew up to assess the risk of the standing, dead trees and other impacts from the fire. The ranger guessed the climbing would be closed until next spring. Sep 20, 2015
desbien
seattle,wa
desbien   seattle,wa
Aug 21, 2014
Phil
Salt Lake City
Phil   Salt Lake City
Good topi here: rcnw.net/forums/index.php?a… Jul 24, 2014
Isa Lulu
VA, NC, TN
Isa Lulu   VA, NC, TN
Hey! Anyone have info on the bouldering here? I can't find any details on how to get to the boulders. May 29, 2013
Drewsky  
Someone else might know better, but I believe Ryan's Wall is south or southeast facing while the other larger wall is south to southwest facing. I think one could potentially climb here year round in the right conditions. Ryan's Wall seems to both dry quickly after and stay dry during most rainstorms. Most of it is in the shade in early afternoon as well. Jul 4, 2010
What is the season here? Looks like it seeps in spring? Which way do the cliffs face and when does the sun hit them? Jun 15, 2010
Ryan Huetter
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Ryan Huetter   Mammoth Lakes, CA
Wow. What a cool interactive topo idea. Nov 26, 2008
jonah  
FYI there is an online guide (incomplete but a good place to start) here:
misha.org/Climbing/Newhalem… Sep 27, 2008
jonah  
Thanks to the years of effort of the Access Fund, the Washington Climbers Coalition and the great National Park Service staff, Newhalem is once again open for new routes!!
The above parties in conjunction with the Vertical World climbing team, the Wilderness Society and the Washington Trails Association just built a new trail to a new mega cliff just down the road. Walk down and check it out and bring your new-routing mojo! There is a decade's worth of potential in this gorge and years of new routes on the new cliff alone!

Also, the late, great badass and all-around great friend Ryan Triplett put up a bunch of new-school hard classics at the main Newhalem cliff ("Newhalem West"). Check 'em out! I'll try to post route info... Sep 27, 2008
To Reach the wall:

Park on the South side of Hwy20, at the East end town.
Walk along hwy 20 for 3 minutes to a trail on the left, which leads to the wall in about 30 seconds. Sep 23, 2008

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