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Routes in Ryan's Wall

12c for a day S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Breaking the Law S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Business Before Pleasure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Callisto S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cherche La Femme S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cherche La Femme Extension S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cinnamon Groove S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cold Beer in the River S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Despicable Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Despicable You S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Domestic Bliss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gainfully Unemployed S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Get in The Van S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Golden Khan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Highway 99 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hull Yeah S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hurt Locker, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kate Moss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lockjaw S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Luna Park S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manfully Endowed S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Meridian S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Misha's Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Reimer Reason S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
OSX S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Paradigm Drift S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Paradigm Shift S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pocket Cyclops S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Prometheus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Serendipity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shoe Phone S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Steeple Chase S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Van Halem S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
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Access Issue: Respect the small area that may still be signed off. Details

Description

The rock is a gneiss (metamorphosed granitic rock) that is both solid and beautiful, offering quality aesthetic lines of 5.9 through 5.13 in difficulty. The crag faces west and south, tucked into the bottom of a wooded, steep valley, just north of the highway.

Getting There

Coming from the west, pass through town to the electrical substation at the end of town and on the right. Park here, and walk for a few minutes up the road, heading further out of town. The crag is just off the road, on the north (left) side.

33 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ryan's Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Cherche La Femme
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 41
Cold Beer in the River
Sport 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 25
Kate Moss
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 18
Domestic Bliss
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 31
Luna Park
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Cherche La Femme Extension
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 18
Serendipity
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Hull Yeah
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 6
Gainfully Unemployed
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
Lockjaw
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 10
12c for a day
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 11
Highway 99
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
Pocket Cyclops
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cherche La Femme
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Cold Beer in the River
 41
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 3 pitches
Kate Moss
 25
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Domestic Bliss
 18
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Luna Park
 31
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Cherche La Femme Extension
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Serendipity
 18
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Hull Yeah
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Gainfully Unemployed
 6
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Lockjaw
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
12c for a day
 10
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Highway 99
 11
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Pocket Cyclops
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Ryan's Wall »

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To Reach the wall:

Park on the South side of Hwy20, at the East end town.
Walk along hwy 20 for 3 minutes to a trail on the left, which leads to the wall in about 30 seconds. Sep 23, 2008
jonah  
Thanks to the years of effort of the Access Fund, the Washington Climbers Coalition and the great National Park Service staff, Newhalem is once again open for new routes!!
The above parties in conjunction with the Vertical World climbing team, the Wilderness Society and the Washington Trails Association just built a new trail to a new mega cliff just down the road. Walk down and check it out and bring your new-routing mojo! There is a decade's worth of potential in this gorge and years of new routes on the new cliff alone!

Also, the late, great badass and all-around great friend Ryan Triplett put up a bunch of new-school hard classics at the main Newhalem cliff ("Newhalem West"). Check 'em out! I'll try to post route info... Sep 27, 2008
jonah  
FYI there is an online guide (incomplete but a good place to start) here:
misha.org/Climbing/Newhalem… Sep 27, 2008
Ryan Huetter
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Ryan Huetter   Mammoth Lakes, CA
Wow. What a cool interactive topo idea. Nov 26, 2008
What is the season here? Looks like it seeps in spring? Which way do the cliffs face and when does the sun hit them? Jun 15, 2010
Drewsky  
Someone else might know better, but I believe Ryan's Wall is south or southeast facing while the other larger wall is south to southwest facing. I think one could potentially climb here year round in the right conditions. Ryan's Wall seems to both dry quickly after and stay dry during most rainstorms. Most of it is in the shade in early afternoon as well. Jul 4, 2010
Isa Lulu
VA, NC, TN
Isa Lulu   VA, NC, TN
Hey! Anyone have info on the bouldering here? I can't find any details on how to get to the boulders. May 29, 2013
Phil
Salt Lake City
Phil   Salt Lake City
Good topi here: rcnw.net/forums/index.php?a… Jul 24, 2014
desbien
seattle,wa
desbien   seattle,wa
Aug 21, 2014
The Goodell Fire passed through this area in late August; Ryan's Wall got burned out, as with much of that valley. We scoped it out last week and the climbing had been cordoned off by the Parks. Parks noted they were going to be sending a crew up to assess the risk of the standing, dead trees and other impacts from the fire. The ranger guessed the climbing would be closed until next spring. Sep 20, 2015

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