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Routes in 19 - New Diversions

Burst of Brilliance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chicken Pie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cock Tart S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Falcon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jugs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
New Deviations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Diversions T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shake, Rattle, and Drop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strangers In the Night T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tail End T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Jack Johnson and Mike Ulawski ('92)
Page Views: 2,326 total, 26/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Jun 24, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The other other "New D". This climb is almost as good as New Diversions. Start the same, but upon clipping the first bolt, continue up instead of traversing right. The crux is a delicate step right to gain some large knobs and it's well protected by the second bolt. After that the route starts to wander up and left. Make two raps with one rope using the Highlander anchors above the roof.

Protection

Pro to 4 inches, 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Save a shoulder length sling for a knob tie-off in the later half of the route.

Photos

Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.
 
Austin Archer   Bishop, Ca.
 
FA by Jack Johnson and Mike Ulawski (not whahski as the guide says)1992. Sep 14, 2013
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
  5.9+ PG13
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
  5.9+ PG13
Led this on 4/26/13 - pretty adventurous but certainly fun. The first pitch ends on a decent ledge with bolted anchors.

If you prefer to button-up the off-width section at the bottom, you may want to walk up a #5 cam - otherwise, you'll have to settle for almost-tipped out/prone-to-walking #3 and #4 placements in that section as I did. Above the off-width, it wasn't totally clear to me when to start heading left toward the two face bolts, so eyeball the sequence carefully before moving ahead.

Bring at least 3 long slings to tie-off the better knobs through the section that bridges the off-width and the face bolts, as the only other chance for pro in that section is a flared, dirty horizontal crack. Sling your lower knob tie-offs long or you'll likely experience nasty rope drag when pulling the final mantle over the anchor ledge.

From the P1 anchor, we headed straight up the face one more pitch on fun 5.6- terrain in order to top out (this pitch is a bit dirty and only accepts tie-offs for pro) and belayed from the tree. However, the walk-off was 4th class with some loose and bushwacking sections, so if that doesn't sound like fun, you may want to forego the second pitch and just rap off the P1 anchors. Apr 28, 2013
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
Just as good as New Diversions, I thought Jun 25, 2010