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Routes in 19 - New Diversions

Burst of Brilliance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chicken Pie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cock Tart S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Falcon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jugs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
New Deviations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Diversions T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shake, Rattle, and Drop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strangers In the Night T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tail End T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 250 ft
FA: Henry Barber (1974)
Page Views: 102 total · 2/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Mar 30, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This route takes a path of least resistance up the knobby face to the right of Chicken Pie. It is best done in one very long pitch. An 80m rope might make it to the top of the cliff. I think with a 70m you will have to simulclimb 20ft or stop and belay at a hand crack just shy of the top.

Start a ways to the right off a boulder that touches the base of the wall. Climb up to a high first bolt, and then continue upwards to a second bolt. The bolts were recently replaced and are bomber. From the second bolt downclimb a short ways and traverse perhaps 15 feet to the left. From here continue up on smaller knobs to reach a small footledge below a water-streak. Down at the bottom of the footledge is a knob that you can tie off which protects the next crux. (It’s also possible to escape here by traversing further left on big knobs to a bolted rap anchor) Make one sort of thin move above the ledge to gain a good rail and bigger knobs in the water-streak. There is another ‘ok’ knob that can be tied off here, before you must mantel onto a hummock which is growing out of the bottom of a flake. This leads to directly below the roof where there is good gear (1”-1.5” cams). Getting over the roof is easy thanks to big knobs and then it’s a cruise to the top of the cliff.

Protection

Bring a light rack of 1-2” cams, a couple quickdraws, and numerous slings or cords for tying off knobs.

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