PRINT: Rock Climb New Deviations, Yosemite National Park

New Deviations

5.9, Trad, 150 ft (45 m),

Avg: 3.5 from 101 votes
FA: Jack Johnson and Mike Ulawski ('92)
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Lower Merced Ri… > Ap. New Diversions

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Description

The other other "New D". This climb is almost as good as New Diversions. Start the same, but upon clipping the first bolt, continue up instead of traversing right. The crux is a delicate step right to gain some large knobs and it's well protected by the second bolt. After that the route starts to wander up and left. Make two raps with one rope using the Highlander anchors above the roof. (70m rope only gets you down as far as the first bolt).

Protection

Pro to 4 inches, 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Save a shoulder length sling for a knob tie-off in the later half of the route.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jugs on ND!

Amazing

Steep knobs!

New Deviations starts at the bottom of the off-width flake (to the left of the arete) and then heads left, while New Diversions shares the same start and then goes up/slightly right.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ

5.9

Just as good as New Diversions, I thought Jun 25, 2010

Jason Albino
Salt Lake City, UT

5.9+ PG13

Led this on 4/26/13 - pretty adventurous but certainly fun. The first pitch ends on a decent ledge with bolted anchors.

If you prefer to button-up the off-width section at the bottom, you may want to walk up a #5 cam - otherwise, you'll have to settle for almost-tipped out/prone-to-walking #3 and #4 placements in that section as I did. Above the off-width, it wasn't totally clear to me when to start heading left toward the two face bolts, so eyeball the sequence carefully before moving ahead.

Bring at least 3 long slings to tie-off the better knobs through the section that bridges the off-width and the face bolts, as the only other chance for pro in that section is a flared, dirty horizontal crack. Sling your lower knob tie-offs long or you'll likely experience nasty rope drag when pulling the final mantle over the anchor ledge.

From the P1 anchor, we headed straight up the face one more pitch on fun 5.6- terrain in order to top out (this pitch is a bit dirty and only accepts tie-offs for pro) and belayed from the tree. However, the walk-off was 4th class with some loose and bushwacking sections, so if that doesn't sound like fun, you may want to forego the second pitch and just rap off the P1 anchors. Apr 28, 2013

Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.

FA by Jack Johnson and Mike Ulawski (not whahski as the guide says)1992. Sep 14, 2013

Brice Pollock
Reno, NV

#5 at the base, then 1-2 #4s for the next 30 ft, followed by 1-2 .75-3 gear placements protects it nicely. Then bolts +1 knob sling to anchors.

OW was easy if you have big hands and the knob moves are large, dynamic and heady on lead. Super cool steller route. Apr 29, 2019

Nick C
NH

80m rope reaches all the way down Apr 23, 2020

Mike Ulawski
Ojai, CA

The bolt for New Diversions was never meant to be used. 1st bolt up and right of the end of the crack. Several knobs can be slung between bolts. We had climbed but did not consider the rock above anchor as a second pitch. Too chossey. Thank you Jack for joining me on this adventure and those that came later. Jul 27, 2021

Mike Arechiga
Oakhurst, CA

Hi all, looking at my old George Meyers/Don Reid guide book, it shows what New Deviation is actually at is where Chicken Pox put up by Steve Wunsch and Diana Hunter in 1972. And the bolt on New Diversions and the couple bolts on so called New Deviations were never placed on the FA’s of those routes. Maybe Chicken Pox and New Deviations are one of the same route? Happy climbing Mike A. Apr 3, 2022

Mike Ulawski
Ojai, CA

Mike, note the anchor "C". It is above the roof off to the left. We believed that line to be far enough removed to our line as ours takes the crack to its end, makes a move up and right before it traverses left and heads up to the ledge. Do they meet somewhere in that expanse of chickenheads? I don't know as their route was not bolted apart from the 1st pitch anchor. Much respect to their bold lead. Apr 14, 2022

Matthew Adler
San Diego, CA

70m rope reaches all the way down Sep 24, 2023