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Routes in 19 - New Diversions

Burst of Brilliance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chicken Pie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cock Tart S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Falcon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jugs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
New Deviations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Diversions T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shake, Rattle, and Drop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strangers In the Night T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tail End T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jerry Coe & Rick Sylvester - April, 1971
Page Views: 1,660 total, 17/month
Shared By: Osprey Overhang on Jan 21, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is a route of high quality with all sorts of jams from finger locks to fists and knob tie-offs. I would point anyone who is a crack lover to this climb. It is also considered the warm-up climb for the area, although, it really is a little steep and stiff for this consideration. Many climbers feel Chicken Pie is deserving of a .10a grade. This is understandable since Chicken Pie is one of the more demanding 5.9 finger to hand cracks. The overall quality of this climb is comparable to the best cracks you will find down canyon.

Also, if you have repeatedly climbed pitch one of Chicken Pie, I would recommend you give the knobby pitch two top out a try. From the chains, pitch two heads right and up large knobs. The pro is good on the entire route, and can easily be done in one pitch if mindful of rope drag.

Location

This climb is about 100ft. right of New Diversions. Look for a right facing ramp with a bush in the middle of it. The ramp turns into an amazing corner (.9). Most parties rappel from the chains at the top of pitch one. If completing the climb (recommended) walk off to the right.

Protection

Pitch one: Single set of friends and stoppers to 3.5" Bring extra 1.25 - 1.75 friends for the corner. Slings. Bolted chains at the anchor.

Pitch two: Slings for knob tie-offs. Green alien for the moves exiting the slab on the top. Natural anchor.

Enjoy!

Photos

snowhazed
Oakland, Ca
 
snowhazed   Oakland, Ca
 
There is nothing remotely 10a about this pitch. LOTS of 5.8 pitches are harder. This has to be one of the softest valley 5.9s around. May 23, 2016
I thought this route was very pumpy. While no move was particularly difficult and it was very very hot the day I climbed this, I was way more pumped than I expected on this climb.

Patrick Jul 23, 2013
Shire-mon
Moab, UT / Boone, NC
Shire-mon   Moab, UT / Boone, NC
A "soft" but great fun route. Supertopo book calls for two 4" pieces, I didnt place anything above a #2 BD, but I ran out the easy 5.6 ending (stayed out on the face/edge of crack, not inside). Jan 23, 2013
The friction is really good on Chicken Pie, and I always thought it was a "soft" 5.9, even considered rating it 5.8 in the guide. I've never heard of anyone considering it 5.10a (until seeing this description). Certainly the fist/flake start of New Diversions/New Deviations is harder and it's rated 5.8 (which is a sandbag in my opinion).

Just pointing out a different viewpoint from the description... Feb 12, 2012
Jesse Arp
Alameda, CA
Jesse Arp   Alameda, CA
SPOILER ALERT (BETA BELOW)

General: Fun route, but can be strenuous to place pro around 1/2 or 3/4 of the way to the small roof. I took a lot under the roof.

Detail: Good crimp rails on left side of dihedral for first 15 feet, then two layback moves to a good left foot (shake, place pro), then 20-30 feet of pumpy laybacks to a decent crimp on left, then a good pinch used to pull roof. After roof it is 5.7 face (knobs) climbing to bolted anchors. Can toprope with a 60m.

Racking up: it takes mostly .75 and below gear under roof, rack up on left sided gear loops as your right side will be butted up against wall and makes it difficult to reach pro. Jul 19, 2011