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Routes in Ap. New Diversions
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Burst of Brilliance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chicken Pie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cock Tart S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Falcon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Highlander S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Jugs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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New Deviations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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New Diversions T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rocket Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Shake, Rattle, and Drop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Strangers In the Night T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tail End T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Sylvester, Wreford-Brown, & Coe - 1971 |
| Page Views: | 8,519 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
New Diversions is a fun little climb with a unique crux.
P1: Begin at the obvious right-facing crack just left of a right-facing corner near where the trail hits the wall. Climb this wide crack up to near its terminus, then step up, clip a bolt, and climb up and right across the knob-studded face. The crux involves mantling onto a huge steering-wheel shaped knob. Belay just above, on a knob near the arete, at a pin with small cams/wires to back it up. 5.10a.
P2: Continue up the thin crack and knobs until it suddenly turns wide. Struggle up this to a belay at a two bolt anchor. 5.9.
Most parties do two raps from here (possible with a single 60m rope but be careful!), but it is possible to continue to the top on easier terrain before walking off.
P1: Begin at the obvious right-facing crack just left of a right-facing corner near where the trail hits the wall. Climb this wide crack up to near its terminus, then step up, clip a bolt, and climb up and right across the knob-studded face. The crux involves mantling onto a huge steering-wheel shaped knob. Belay just above, on a knob near the arete, at a pin with small cams/wires to back it up. 5.10a.
P2: Continue up the thin crack and knobs until it suddenly turns wide. Struggle up this to a belay at a two bolt anchor. 5.9.
Most parties do two raps from here (possible with a single 60m rope but be careful!), but it is possible to continue to the top on easier terrain before walking off.
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