Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 19 - New Diversions

Burst of Brilliance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chicken Pie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cock Tart S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Falcon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jugs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
New Deviations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Diversions T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shake, Rattle, and Drop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strangers In the Night T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tail End T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 115 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Sylvester, Wreford-Brown, & Coe - 1971
Page Views: 4,592 total, 34/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


67 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

New Diversions is a fun little climb with a unique crux.

P1: Begin at the obvious right-facing crack just left of a right-facing corner near where the trail hits the wall. Climb this wide crack up to near its terminus, then step up, clip a bolt, and climb up and right across the knob-studded face. The crux involves mantling onto a huge steering-wheel shaped knob. Belay just above, on a knob near the arete, at a pin with small cams/wires to back it up. 5.10a.

P2: Continue up the thin crack and knobs until it suddenly turns wide. Struggle up this to a belay at a nest of slings. 5.9.

Most parties do two raps from here (possible with a single 60m rope but be careful!), but it is possible to continue to the top on easier terrain before walking off.

Protection

Single set of cams through a 4 inch piece. A shoulder-length sling.

Photos

To me, this route felt about as 10a as Sacherer Cracker, which is to say not 10a at all, but maybe I screwed it all up. I actually backed off on this route and the old schooler I was with sent it for me. Even following I was super impressed with the stiffness of the rating. We never considered it as two pitches, though I could see that working. Jan 4, 2017
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.10a
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.10a
Agree with JPvandever, the knob is waaay better than it looks from the ground.

Easily done in 1 pitch with a 70M. Nov 3, 2014
Peter Valchev
Truckee, CA
  5.10a
Peter Valchev   Truckee, CA
  5.10a
Just heads up about the changed anchor situation:

The bolts are actually below the "5.9 fist" on the topo and skip out on a lot of good climbing. I thought there must be another anchor 10 meters further and kept going, but there was nothing (or I missed it). The only place to belay was at a big manzanita tree at the very top... about 70 meters or so, a nice and varied pitch.

Rappelled from there (no slings though anywhere in sight) with an 80 meter rope and two raps. (Not sure a 70 is enough for the first rappel to the bolts, it's long). There is supposed to be a walk-off too. Apr 16, 2013
T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
There's a 2b rap anchor above the wide section up top, instead of the slings/#4 anchor described elsewhere. Nov 28, 2012
Ross Exler
New York
  5.10a
Ross Exler   New York
  5.10a
Do it as one pitch! Easy offwidth to fist crack to fun knob climbing with an airy mantle (and an awesome slung knob as your pro) to a finger crack to an offwidth that eventually becomes low angle friction and knobs. 60+ meters of climbing. It is really, really fun. Jul 11, 2012
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
Best to do in one pitch...can be done and rapped with a single 60m rope. Oct 17, 2011
Jason Holliday
Blacksburg, VA
Jason Holliday   Blacksburg, VA
This is one of my favorite routes ever. It's been a while, but I seem to remember straddling a watermelon, rotating sideways off of it to grab the next one, and then mantling it. It took me a while to get on top of it because it isn't that deep and the wall is quite steep at that point. Probably not the most elegant way to climb it but it sure was memorable. May 13, 2011
David Aguasca!
New York
  5.10a
David Aguasca!   New York
  5.10a
There's a two bolt anchor at the top of this now, at what is described as the top of the second pitch. I led it and lowered off with a 60m rope, with just a little bit of slack left (so tie a knot in the end before you try this) Two 4ft slings are good for slinging knobs on the traverse. The mantle was pretty wild, but not the hardest part of the route, I think. Jun 11, 2009
jpvandever
San Francisco, CA
  5.10a
jpvandever   San Francisco, CA
  5.10a
Be sure to use long slings on the bolt at the top of the first section and on the piton above the knobby section to reduce rope drag. The large knob in the center of the face can be slung for protection (and is even larger than it looks from the ground!). May 5, 2008
TinCrow
Ca
TinCrow   Ca
Easily done in one pitch with a 70'. The rap also went well with a single 70'. May 5, 2008