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Routes in 19 - New Diversions

Burst of Brilliance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chicken Pie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cock Tart S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Falcon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jugs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
New Deviations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Diversions T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shake, Rattle, and Drop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strangers In the Night T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tail End T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Donini, Rab Carrington, Bev Johnson, Steve Wunsch
Page Views: 234 total, 4/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Mar 30, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Above the Electric Gully, in the center of the cliff, is large pillar. Wasp climbs the corner on the left side of this pillar, while Strangers in the Night ascends the right side. The crux fist crack is tucked away in a right facing corner and is not visible from the base of the cliff. As a result, this nice route sees little traffic.

The first pitch is the same as the Electric Gully. Climb steep knobs out of an alcove, past a bush, and then squeeze chimney past another bush. A variation (5.10) can be done by starting on the hand crack on the left wall and then moving through knobs up and right to get over into the chimney. Establish a belay in the gully below the obvious right-facing corner.

The second pitch climbs the burly fist crack in the corner to a ledge, and then more cracks to the summit. Like most climbs at New Diversions cliff, it is possible to link this into one long pitch but you will probably need an 80m rope or do some simulclimbing.

Protection

Pro to 4" with extra 3" cams.

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