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Routes in 19 - New Diversions

Burst of Brilliance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chicken Pie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cock Tart S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Falcon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jugs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
New Deviations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Diversions T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shake, Rattle, and Drop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strangers In the Night T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tail End T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad
FA: Steve Wunsch and Rab Carrington, 1972
Page Views: 585 total, 7/month
Shared By: Steve Annecone on Jan 4, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Exciting and fun climb just right of New Diversions. The route follows steep and smallish chickenheads for quite a while before merging with New D near the top of it's second pitch. Very interesting and delicate climbing in spots. Seemed very sustained and perhaps hard for the grade.

Location

Starts in the gully just right of New D, following the very steep face/arete up and left. Rap from the top of the 2nd pitch of New Dimensions or head up one easy short pitch to the top and a walk off left.

Protection

The gear is mostly slung chickenheads, and some times these are thin and potentially friable. Best not to take any big falls and/or consider use of screamers if climbing at your limit. I recall some wired nuts and perhaps other small gear, but the chickenheads were key.

Photos

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No stars in the Reid guidebook...man was I pleasantly surprized. Mostly small gear, if your used to standing around (experienced) it ain't so scary. do the direct finish (up shallow corner on the right)! Apr 26, 2016
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
I only slung two chickenheads. The corner takes good small gear the whole way and you have comfortable stances to place it from. This is assuming you take the variation that escapes left around the arete to join New Diversions at the hanging flake above the p1 anchors. The topo also shows a direct finish that continues straight up the thin corner after the knobs run out. The direct finish looked harder than 5.9 and you will probably want extra small gear and micro cams. Mar 30, 2013
Alexey
San Jose
Alexey   San Jose
There is a rumors that this climb is a big sandbag. Did not climbed it , but I like humor in Don Reid book - this one rated there as 5.9d Sep 29, 2011
JoeS  
Steve,
I just noticed that you had posted this route today when I clicked on a photo of New Diversions. I still remember doing this route with you way back in the day. A good climb and I definitely recall that the nature of the climbing keeps one focused. Sep 29, 2011