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Routes in 19 - New Diversions

Burst of Brilliance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chicken Pie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cock Tart S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Falcon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jugs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
New Deviations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Diversions T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shake, Rattle, and Drop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strangers In the Night T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tail End T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rick Sylvester, Chris Hassig, and Alex Behr - Nov. 1974
Page Views: 573 total · 6/month
Shared By: Osprey Overhang on Jan 21, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is a hidden gem! There are bushes blocking the view of the top half of the climb from the ground. If the bushes were not there I'm sure this climb would have people on it more often. Can be done in one pitch but two is recommended due to rope drag.
Pitch One: Climb up crack into and through the bushes. Set up a natural anchor below a large roof.
Pitch Two: Climb through the roof with excellent hands and cups (.10b) turning the lip is the crux. Continue up slabby hand crack (#2.5 friend) to the top and a natural anchor.
Walk off to the right.

Location

This climb is to the right of Chicken Pie, and just to the left of a dirty Chimney for Two. Look for an east facing crack that climbs up into some bushes.

Protection

Single set to 3". Bring one extra #2-#3.5 friends. Slings.

Photos

Nicholas L.
Raleigh, NC
 
Nicholas L.   Raleigh, NC
 
There were parties toproping all the usual climbs at this area so we decided to get on this one. Felt like I was the first person on this route in years. Needed to do a lot of bushwhacking and gardening just to get to the belay under the roof. Despite this, the hands at the start of the first pitch are pretty clean and fun and the roof is really awesome. Definitely worth it despite the messiness! Nov 2, 2015
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
The moves at the lip of the roof are pretty cool. Like with most roof climbs, make sure the rope doesn't drag the cams up into the crack. Pitch 1 starts off as a pleasant handcrack and then quickly turns to vertical bushwhacking. This is sort of one of those novelty climbs where you do 200 feet of mediocre climbing just for that 15 feet of splitter roof crack. It's worth it though. Mar 10, 2012

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