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Routes in l. New Diversions

Burst of Brilliance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chicken Pie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cock Tart S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Falcon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jugs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
New Deviations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Diversions T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shake, Rattle, and Drop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strangers In the Night T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tail End T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: George Meyers - 1975
Page Views: 627 total · 6/month
Shared By: Osprey Overhang on Mar 11, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

I'm posting this climb because the top half is a great 2" hand crack that goes at 5.6 It is rare to find a beginner climb like this that is low angle down in the river canyon. So if Swan Slab is too crowded in the early spring, you just don't want to go to Knob Hill, or the cliff up and left of Little Wing is just too long of a walk, come and do this line.

Climb an unattractive, chocky, left facing corner to a nice flat ledge. Continue up left around a tree in the slammer hand crack. The top slabs out but the crack continues.

Location

This route is the last climb on the right side of the cliff. Pass Chicken Pie, walk around a large boulder, and pass a small gully which is actually the dirty Chimney for Two. Tail End begins up a chocky left facing corner.

Protection

Single set of friends to #3. Extra #2 - #2.5 pieces. Slings.

Natural anchor on top. Walk off to the right.

Try to pass underneath the tree to avoid rope drag if you can.

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nkane
 
nkane  
 
The hand crack/layback at the top is not worth the mossy bushwacking necessary to reach it. I don't have particularly high standards for routes, but I can't recommend this one. Unless you enjoy filling your shirt and shoes with moss fragments. Nov 2, 2015

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