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Early Access
Routes in Southeast Face
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Alvin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Barfy's Favorite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Black Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Central Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dancing Ladies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Forward Never Straight (a.k.a. Shade of Grey) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Greatest Barf, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Greatest Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Happy Wife, Happy Life T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Inner Mountain Flame T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jetstream Deluxe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Judy's Jaunt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Keep the River Free T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Le Petit Francais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Misty Mountain Hop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Mr. Gone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Not the Greatest Route (But Still Fun). T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rites of Passage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Simon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Theodore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 40.715, -105.2917 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,863 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Martinuzzi on Feb 15, 2010 |
| Admins: | James Schroeder, Pete Zagorski, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2025 Seasonal Raptor Closures - Triple Tier, Boston Peak, Grazing Allotment Crag
Details
FORT COLLINS, Colo. (Feb. 3, 2025) – To protect nesting birds of prey, the Roosevelt National Forest began implementing annual closures in several popular recreation areas within the Canyon Lakes and Boulder Ranger Districts on Feb 1, 2025.
On the Canyon Lakes Ranger District, the closure areas include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details.
The Roosevelt National Forest works closely with partners like Colorado Parks and Wildlife, Boulder Climbing Community and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
From the Canyon Lakes Ranger District Forest Service:
Fort Collins, Colo. (March 7, 2024) – to protect nesting birds of prey, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in several popular recreation areas throughout the Canyon Lakes Ranger District. The closures include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details. Effective through July 31, 2024, the closures protect established raptor territories to ensure the birds remain undisturbed during sensitive breeding and nesting seasons.
The Canyon Lakes Ranger District partners with Colorado Parks & Wildlife and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
A map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Additional information: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Description
Black Dog is a fun, mostly-crack line on Greyrock's Southeast Face with an exciting, runout face-climbing crux. It is mislabeled on the SE Face topo in the Leubben/Cross/Scott Poudre Canyon Routes guidebook as route 68.
P1. Climb the side of the flake (left side is easier, right side is much nicer and only about 5.7) and a short stretch of face above to a crack that runs through two small roofs. Clamber over the roofs (5.8 or 8-), passing a fixed pin after the second. Continue up the enjoyable crack as it squeezes down to nothing and spits you out on thin, protection-free, friction climbing. Man up, crimp down where possible, and work out the sequence up and left until you reach a large ramp. Belay here, 5.9 (?) R, 150 feet.
P2. Follow left-trending seams and finger cracks with nice face holds for a rope length or so until a belay can be had on lower-angle terrain. This pitch trends naturally toward Central Chimney. If necessary, an intermediate, semi-hanging belay could be made along the way, 5.9-, 200 feet.
P3. Ascend lower-angle terrain, either trending left toward Central Chimney's finish, or following lichenous but interesting features straight up for more "full value" climbing. Belay at or near the summit plateau, 5.6 (harder if you choose), 150 feet.
Location
About 70 feet climber's right of Central Chimney, and about 20 feet right of Inner Mountain Flame, a large flake leans up against Greyrock's main face behind a tree. Black Dog ascends this flake (either side works) to a handcrack that passes through two roofs above the flake.
Protection
The protection is excellent on this route, with the exception of 15+ feet of very bleak friction climbing at the end of pitch one. Unfortunately, this section coincides with the hardest climbing on the route. A standard rack protects pitch one just fine, but extra small cams and nuts will get used on the lengthy, mostly thin pitch two. Testicles/ovaries of steel also useful.
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