Type: Sport, 115 ft (35 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,471 total · 25/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, David Riley

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Mandragora is a classic technical, vertical, enduro wall climb reminiscent of American classics like Orange Juice and Heinous Cling. Although not quite as stellar (or as hard) as either of those legendary lines, this is one of the most classic lines of Siurana, and should be on the tick list of any visitor that can climb at the grade.

Sadly the line bakes in the sun nearly all day, making it a bit of a tease for visitors on a tight schedule. The top of the climb gets sun first, and the shade line slowly drops, hitting the relatively low crux around 11am. Fortunately the holds are surprisingly not sharp at all, climbing beautiful orange sculpted pockets & smooth incut edges, rather than the sharp crimps found everywhere else.

Begin with easy moves to the big ledge 10 feet up. Follow jugs up & left over the slight bulge to a stance on the tan slab near the 3rd bolt. The crux passes this slab on thin, sequential edges. Above, follow more incut holds in beautiful dark orange stone, veering right to reach the midway anchor in white rock. A difficult boulder problem on slopey crimps heads back left from the anchor to more orange jugs. Follow the juggy slab, moving right to clip, until the holds expire & you are forced right to thin holds in white stone. Surmount a small bulge, work into the black corner and up to the anchor.

Location Suggest change

At the far left end of the Espero Primavera cliff. Walk the trail along the base of the crag, passing behind a 30ยด-foot high pinnacle with a few short, steep routes. Beyond this is a brilliant orange streak. Mandragora climbs directly up the heavily chalked line of bolts up the orange streak.

Protection Suggest change

14 bolts to the second two bolt anchor. There is an intermediate lower station if you lack a 70m rope.

Photos

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