All Locations > International > Europe > Spain > Catalonia > Siurana > Valley Crags > Espero Primavera
Avg: 3.7 from 10 votes
Routes in Espero Primavera
|Camparos Toca el Dos S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Espero Primavera S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Ferralladura S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Mandragora S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Marieta de L'ull Viu S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Papagora S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Remena Nena S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Se Miapaga La Baldufa S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Tan San Fot S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Volta I Volta S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|berberechin fibrao S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|penitenciagite S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Type:||Sport, 115 ft|
|Page Views:||1,574 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009|
DescriptionMandragora is a classic technical, vertical, enduro wall climb reminiscent of American classics like Orange Juice and Heinous Cling. Although not quite as stellar (or as hard) as either of those legendary lines, this is one of the most classic lines of Siurana, and should be on the tick list of any visitor that can climb at the grade.
Sadly the line bakes in the sun nearly all day, making it a bit of a tease for visitors on a tight schedule. The top of the climb gets sun first, and the shade line slowly drops, hitting the relatively low crux around 11am. Fortunately the holds are surprisingly not sharp at all, climbing beautiful orange sculpted pockets & smooth incut edges, rather than the sharp crimps found everywhere else.
Begin with easy moves to the big ledge 10 feet up. Follow jugs up & left over the slight bulge to a stance on the tan slab near the 3rd bolt. The crux passes this slab on thin, sequential edges. Above, follow more incut holds in beautiful dark orange stone, veering right to reach the midway anchor in white rock. A difficult boulder problem on slopey crimps heads back left from the anchor to more orange jugs. Follow the juggy slab, moving right to clip, until the holds expire & you are forced right to thin holds in white stone. Surmount a small bulge, work into the black corner and up to the anchor.