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Routes in Espero Primavera

Camparos Toca el Dos S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Espero Primavera S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ferralladura S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mandragora S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Marieta de L'ull Viu S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Papagora S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Remena Nena S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Se Miapaga La Baldufa S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tan San Fot S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Volta I Volta S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
berberechin fibrao S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
penitenciagite S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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One of Siurana's most popular crags, Espero Primavera is known for its ultra long & technical face climbs and all day sun. Most of the routes here are vertical to slightly slabby, with a couple of steep roofs sprinkled in here and there. This cliff hosts several of Siurana's most acclaimed routes, particularly the epic 35 meter-long orange streak "Mandragora" (5.12c). However, the main attraction is really the high concentration of moderate routes. Few crags at Siurana have so many routes under 5.12, especially not so many as long & engaging as the climbs found here. If its not occupied, a great place to start is the 35m slab of "Espero Primavera" (5.10-) which can be done in two pitches if you don't have a 70m rope, or just for the "fun" of it. There are a total of ~25 routes at this crag, ranging in grade from 5+ (5.9/10a) to 8b (5.13d).

The crag is not actually sunny all day, but it will seem like that if you're a late riser. The crag does get shade in the early morning, until around 11am. After that, virtually every route bakes in the sun all day. If you have your eyes set on one of the classic hard lines, get up early or come on a cloudy day. Another decent shade option is to head for the four quality 5.11s at the far left end of the wall. These routes have a nice grove of trees at the base that provide relief at least for the belayer.

Getting There

Espero Primavera is the first of the¨Valley Crags¨ on the NW side of the road. From the village of Siurana, drive the road back towards Montsant to a point 3.2 Km form the upper parking lot. There is a small pullout on the NW side of the road. Park here. The Espero Primavera cliff is the obvious cliff pm the NW side of the road. This lot fills up on weekends, so you may need to park along the road. From the parking lot, hike back up the hill towards Siurana for about 100 feet, to an inobvious trail down a steep embankment on the left. Follow the trail down to the bottom of a drainage, then steeply up the other side. The trail wanders a short distance before reaching the crag.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Espero Primavera

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Espero Primavera
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Remena Nena
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Espero Primavera 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Remena Nena 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Mandragora 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
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