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Routes in Espero Primavera

Camparos Toca el Dos S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Espero Primavera S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ferralladura S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mandragora S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Marieta de L'ull Viu S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Papagora S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Remena Nena S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Se Miapaga La Baldufa S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tan San Fot S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Volta I Volta S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
berberechin fibrao S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
penitenciagite S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,703 total, 17/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description

One of the classic technical slab climbs of Siurana, Remena Nena is a cerebral outing on excellent multi-colored stone. The darker rock here bakes in the sun, so come on a cloudy day or bring loads of chalk. The line weaves radically, so keep an open mind when route-finding. The crux involves a long reach which may make this feel more difficult for shorties.

Show the Euro fun boys what´s what by cruising the initial left-facing corner with bomber fingerlocks. Mount the slab, then head pretty far right, then back left, with a difficult shuffling sequence to cross the bolt line. Continue further left, to reach a wide 2¨edge and a good shake before the crux. Mantle up onto the edge, then move up & right (reachy) to gain the bulbous left-facing corner/roof. Pump up the crack, then move back left, across the face, to another flake out left. Cruise up this to the anchor.

Location

Near the middle of the Espero cliff, climbing the pretty black & orange face immediately left of the "Tan San Fot" buttress.

Protection

Bolts to 2BA.

Photos

Dolph
  5.12a PG13
Dolph  
  5.12a PG13
Careful clipping the 4th bolt with the ledge below. Oct 29, 2017
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
Not 12a. (but really, really good!) Dec 3, 2014
Great route. Fairly sustained with a couple good rests. Solid 11d or maybe 12a. Mar 20, 2014