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Routes in Espero Primavera

Camparos Toca el Dos S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Espero Primavera S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ferralladura S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mandragora S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Marieta de L'ull Viu S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Papagora S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Remena Nena S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Se Miapaga La Baldufa S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tan San Fot S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Volta I Volta S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
berberechin fibrao S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
penitenciagite S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 370 total, 4/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description

This excellent moderate climbs mostly on large holds, and makes for a great warmup. A bitter hard crux at the end on sloping edges detracts slightly from what is otherwise a classic jug haul. This route shares the first two bolts with ¨Sayanora Baby¨. The route is unfortunately quite polished, but still enjoyable, and a nice change of pace once your skin is wrecked from the razor sharp crimps found elsewhere.

Begin with a few hard moves to gain the easy chimney. Head right at the 2nd bolt, traversing around the arete with difficulty. Work up the right side of the arete, then traverse right at the bulge, or a few feet below it, to a good stance below the obvious roof. Large jugs lead over the roof to a huge pocket. Make big moves to gain the white headwall, where several horrible crimps await. Continue over the bulge to the slab and the anchor.

Location

Near the right end of the Espero Cliff. This route starts right above where the approach trail first meets the cliff, heading up a bright orange stem-box, and then following the right line of bolts when the lines split.

Protection

~10 bolts, to 2 Bolt Anchor. Shares the first two bolts with "Sayanora Baby".

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