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Routes in Espero Primavera

Camparos Toca el Dos S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Espero Primavera S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ferralladura S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Llet de boja S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mandragora S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Marieta de L'ull Viu S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Papagora S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Remena Nena S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Se Miapaga La Baldufa S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tant S'en Fot S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Volta I Volta S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
berberechin fibrao S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
penitenciagite S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: D. Brascó (1995)
Page Views: 459 total · 4/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009 with updates from ndchu
Admins: Jason Halladay

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This route is highly regarded in several guidebooks, perhaps due to the unusual nature of the climbing, and there is no doubt about the route´s popularity. There are some awesome pockets on this route, but the line traverses dramatically to link the obvious weaknesses, and this detracts quite a bit, and makes the route a poor choice for those at their limit.

Begin up the chimney, but keep your eye out for face holds on the left. Jugs appear as the chimney widens, eventually reaching a good stance below the crux. Locate a good 2¨ edge on the steep face out right. Commit to the edge, and traverse strenuously on bad, polished feet, to a large pocket. Rest up here, then make big moves up and right to gain the slab. Things ease on the slab, which eventually hosts a number of interesting pockets. Head slightly right at the top to the hidden anchor below a small roof.


Walk left along the base of the cliff to a gray rounded buttress, with a wide chimney crack on the left. Tan San Fot begins up this chimney & climbs the buttress. This is currently the 2nd bolted line left of the steep, orange parallel chimney of ¨Sayanora Baby¨, and the first route right of Remena ¨Nena¨.


~10 bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor. This is hard to clean due to the traversey nature.



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