Type: Sport, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: D. Brascó (1995)
Page Views: 1,023 total · 6/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, David Riley

You & This Route

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This route is highly regarded in several guidebooks, perhaps due to the unusual nature of the climbing, and there is no doubt about the route´s popularity. There are some awesome pockets on this route, but the line traverses dramatically to link the obvious weaknesses, and this detracts quite a bit, and makes the route a poor choice for those at their limit.

Begin up the chimney, but keep your eye out for face holds on the left. Jugs appear as the chimney widens, eventually reaching a good stance below the crux. Locate a good 2¨ edge on the steep face out right. Commit to the edge, and traverse strenuously on bad, polished feet, to a large pocket. Rest up here, then make big moves up and right to gain the slab. Things ease on the slab, which eventually hosts a number of interesting pockets. Head slightly right at the top to the hidden anchor below a small roof.


Walk left along the base of the cliff to a gray rounded buttress, with a wide chimney crack on the left. Tan San Fot begins up this chimney & climbs the buttress. This is currently the 2nd bolted line left of the steep, orange parallel chimney of ¨Sayanora Baby¨, and the first route right of Remena ¨Nena¨.


~10 bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor. This is hard to clean due to the traversey nature.