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Routes in Espero Primavera

Camparos Toca el Dos S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Espero Primavera S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ferralladura S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mandragora S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Marieta de L'ull Viu S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Papagora S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Remena Nena S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Se Miapaga La Baldufa S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tan San Fot S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Volta I Volta S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
berberechin fibrao S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
penitenciagite S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 115 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,414 total, 14/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description

The crag´s namesake is the most classic moderate at the crag, and likely the most classic at Siurana. Originally a two-pitch route (and still possible as such), this route is now easily climbed in one pitch with a 70meter rope. This is essentially a slab climb, but offers highly featured, interesting rock, making this a bit more enjoyable than some.

From the ledge, head up the steep wall, following a discontinuous left-facing flake. Pass a few cool pockets to the lip of the steep wall, mantle the slab, and work your way up, slightly left, then back right to a large ledge in an alcove. The original first pitch ended here. Clip the anchor, then continue out left from the belay. The crux of p. 2 is encountered just above the first bolt of this pitch: thin moves on small, sharp holds. Move up, trending more left-wards near the top to the anchor.

Location

The route begins from an unnerving, exposed, sloping ledge. From the point where the approach reaches the cliff, scramble right about 15 feet to the arete above a large, sloping ledge. Leave your kit on the flat ledge to the left, and traverse around the corner. This is very exposed & a belay would not be unreasonable. Espero is the first route around the corner, beginning a few feet left of the belay bolt.

Protection

Bolts & 2 Bolt Anchors at the belays. Can be done as a one-pitch sport route with a 70m rope.

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