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Early Access
Routes in The Great Black North
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Bete Noir S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Black Toe Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Borg, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bureau of Land Management (BLM) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Burnt Toast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Capital Outlay S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Chuana Chavaria S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cold Feet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Datura S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Delilah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Don't Make Me Shave You S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hang a Louie S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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It's All Gone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Laugh the Past Away S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Locutus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Magus, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Pincher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Resistance is Futile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Skank to Crank S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Three Doubles S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Torch & Twang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Tout Tout de Suite S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Tower of Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Triage S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| GPS: | 38.65239, -105.22439 |
| FA: | Dan Durland |
| Page Views: | 1,638 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | B Haus on Oct 25, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: This crag may be on Private Property!
Details
The access situation here is a bit murky. According to "Shelf Road Rock", the crag is likely located on state land that is leased to a local rancher. Climbers should treat this area as though it were private property. Keep a low profile, leave your dogs at home, and keep the noise down.
Per Brandon Schirm: you need a fishing or hunting license to use this crag. It's part of a trust land, so therefore if you don't pay the fee potentially you could receive a fine. On 9-12-20, the cost of a fishing license was $33.42.
Per Brandon Schirm: you need a fishing or hunting license to use this crag. It's part of a trust land, so therefore if you don't pay the fee potentially you could receive a fine. On 9-12-20, the cost of a fishing license was $33.42.
Description
If the top bit of the climb was 60 feet long, and you didn't have to do the bottom of this route, The Magus would be the best climb at Shelf....
Begin with a long, chossy, and very dirty 5.10 pitch that follows about 9 bolts to the anchor below the large bulge. From here it's fun movement over slightly chossy underclings, pinches, monos, jugs, pinches and crimps through the power endurace bulge to the anchors.
All in all this route is a fun outting, and probably the "easiest" hard route at the area.
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