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Routes in Dana's Arch Area

Another Man's Car T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beat Box S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Brett Thompson and Scott Fuller Memorial Route, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crimson Eye , The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
DGS T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dana's Arch T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3
Golden Road S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heaven's Gate T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jungle Fun S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tempituous S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildest Dreams T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 260 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: P2 - Sonya Kepler/Orion Watson P3 - Orion Watson
Page Views: 1,853 total · 18/month
Shared By: Orion Watson on Sep 27, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

The majority of the climbing on this route is 5.10 and climbs unique features for Index. The crux finish is wildly steep and exposed - fun!

Pitch 1: Climb the first pitch of Jungle Fun/Tempituous to the belay. Much better climbing than appears from the ground. 5.10 - bolts.

Pitch 2: Follow the bolted flake as for the start of pitch 2 of Tempituous. After the second bolt, trend left and follow flakes and a featured face to a belay stance. By using slings, this pitch can be linked with P1 for a monster 180 ft pitch (20 draws). 5.10 - bolts and 1 medium nut between the second and third bolt.

Pitch 3: The final pitch climbs through two fun 5.10+ bulges/roofs to a tenuous traverse left. A two bolt boulder problem through the main roof with 250ft at your back guards the chains. This pitch is still a little scruffy, but the climbing is good. 5.11+/12- bolts and a blue and yellow tcu protects the moves to the first bolt.

Descend by lowering from the top pitch to the top of P2. Two raps from the top of P2 get you to the ground (100ft and 70ft). Rap anchors have been installed in the plumb line under pitch two. Take care with a 60M rope.

Location

This route is located on the far left of the upper wall before the trail to Earwax. Shares the start with Jungle Fun and Tempituous.

Protection

12 draws, 1 medium nut, 1 blue tcu, 1 yellow tcu.

Photos

Eric Hirst
  5.12a
Eric Hirst  
  5.12a
Really fun climbing all the way, although Jungle Fun felt surprisingly hard. I'd leave the nuts behind and instead bring: .75 green Camalot for 2nd pitch, blue TCU for start of 3rd pitch, and enough creature comforts to spend some time working the final crux like a sport route. It's a small ledge, but pulling the rope a few times so both partners could redpoint made for a great outing. Oct 29, 2017
Second pitch is awesome! As the description notes, 60m rope works just fine with a little to spare. May 10, 2017
11d/12a seems about right. Probably same grade as the crux of Tempitchuous. The 2nd 5.10 pitch is remarkable. Jan 14, 2015

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