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Routes in Dana's Arch Area

Another Man's Car T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beat Box S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Brett Thompson and Scott Fuller Memorial Route, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crimson Eye, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
DGS T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dana's Arch T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3
Golden Road S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heaven's Gate T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jungle Fun S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Psilocybe Cyanescens T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tempituous S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildest Dreams T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Ryan Hoover, Chandler Davis, Michal Rynkiewicz
Page Views: 2,972 total · 95/month
Shared By: Ryan Hoover on Apr 24, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

P1 - 5.10c Climb Lamplighter to the first pitch anchors of Heavens Gate.

P2 - 5.11- Break left into a corner with blue lichen. Juggy climbing leads to a boulder problem before the anchors.

P3 - 5.10 Climb straight above the belay following sustained side pull and crimps. Easier gear climbing leads to the belay.

P4 - 5.11- A long pitch of flawless face climbing.

Location

Starts on Lamplighter. From the first pitch of Heavens Gate, break left at an obvious small corner.

Protection

14 Draws single rack to 1". Single rack to 3" for Lamplighter. It can be rappelled with a single 70, but due to the traversing nature, it is easier to rappel Heavens Gate.

Photos

Wow. Amazing route development. It's like it's always been there. Fun climbing on clean featured stone that looks more like SoCal rock then the UTW. Climate change?

Instant classic alongside Heaven's Gate. Nice work! Jun 8, 2016
wayne wallace
Seattle
  5.11+
wayne wallace   Seattle
  5.11+
Fantastic route , yes, but be ready for minimum 11c climbing. A couple of pieces of gear can be handy on p3, p4. My trip report: Here Jun 27, 2016
Josh Baxley
Seattle, WA
  5.11+
Josh Baxley   Seattle, WA
  5.11+
If you don't follow the bolt line on P3 it will feel closer to 5.10+. Go straight up and right after clipping the second to last bolt (I think), then traverse left along a thin rail. Feels like you're off route but that's the only way I could figure it out. Jun 28, 2016
Andrew Davidson
Everett, WA
  5.11
Andrew Davidson   Everett, WA
  5.11
I agree, this is a great route. Pitch 3 & 4 were definitely the money pitches. P2 is real easy climbing then slaps you in the face with a boulder problem you need to have dialed for even a chance to send. My only complaint would be the placement of the first bolt on P4. being that it was 5 feet right of the anchor below some stiff climbing to start the pitch. Gear wise, excluding P1, I placed a red #1 C4 twice and a green .75 C4 once Jul 1, 2016
Managed an Onsight of this today. Great route. 5.11 seems appropriate. Felt same grade as Golden Road which I did recently. Could use a bit more traffic--and I think for the 3rd pitch moving the bolt ( 2nd to the last bolt) up and right to more closely following the path of climbing would make this more appealing to the masses. Thanks guys for taking the time to put up these routes! That last pitch was excellent. May 21, 2018

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