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Routes in Dana's Arch Area

Another Man's Car T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beat Box S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Brett Thompson and Scott Fuller Memorial Route, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crimson Eye , The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
DGS T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dana's Arch T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3
Golden Road S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heaven's Gate T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jungle Fun S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tempituous S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildest Dreams T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, Aid, 4 pitches
FA: Bob Crawford, Leigh Nason, Pat Timson, 70 FFA: (P1 Short) Darryl Cramer, Terry Lien
Page Views: 1,956 total · 18/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 30, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

P1: Climb the thin pin-scarred arch past bolts to a two-bolt sling belay about 40 feet up (.11b). Either descend or continue to free climb through a thin corner past one bolt and possible gear placements to another sling belay before the pitch 2 bolt ladder (.12a/b).

The rest of the pitches are primarily aid:

P2: Bolt ladder and an A3 section.

P3: Mixed free and aid to a rightward trending ramp.

P4: A2 groove/crack that gets runoff from the top.

Location

P1 is the very obvious left-curving arch encountered after passing the sport wall on the trail heading towards the Earwax wall. Descent from the upper pitches may require two 60m ropes.

Protection

Bolts and possibly a small cam or two if planning to lead the .12 section as well. Fixed anchors on the lower part, but consider bringing a knife and some fresh webbing as the hangers clogged with old slings.

Aid bolts higher up are rumoured to have been upgraded recently; I'm not sure if this applies to the belay bolts as well.

Photos

Stamati A
Bellingham, WA
  5.11a A3
Stamati A   Bellingham, WA
  5.11a A3
the bolts are a little disconcerting in their rustiness... Aug 30, 2017
Stamati A
Bellingham, WA
  5.11a A3
Stamati A   Bellingham, WA
  5.11a A3
Anyone checked out free climbing potential above the 5.12 section? Dec 7, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
A pleasingly petite pumpy pitch of perfectly pure pin-scar pulling? Jul 29, 2014
My preferred contender for the best short pitch of pumpy bolt-protected pure pin-scarred fun on the planet. Jul 29, 2014

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