Avg: 2.6 from 34 votes
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Dave Gunstone, Darryl Cramer, Greg Olsen (var. finish D. Cramer)|
|Page Views:||2,825 total · 26/month|
|Shared By:||Jon Nelson on Oct 2, 2011|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
1) The novel coronavirus and Index residents.
Residents of Index are very concerned about visitors spreading the virus to them. Please be considerate by taking some serious precautions such as
- Be extra safe to greatly reduce the chance of needing a rescue. (Choose partner carefully, just TR routes. Triple-check setups...)
- Do not interact with the people in town or on a trail. (Choose an obscure crag & route. Drive carefully through town.)
- In case the above two precautions fail or you come across someone on a trail or crag, bring a facemask and gloves to wear to prevent spreading the virus from your breath or hands. In lieu of a facemask, a bandana or scarf over the nose and mouth can also reduce the spread of fine droplets from your nose and mouth when you speak. Also, try to keep the 6-foot recommended distance from other people.
2) 2020 Seasonal raptor closure: Our resident pair of Peregrines selected a nest site on the 6th pitch of Sabbra Cadabra this year, similar to 2016 and 2018 nesting seasons. Please do not climb in the area shown here until approximately July 15, 2020. This includes the upper pitches of Sabbra Cadabra, Black Radish, and Hell Bent for Glory.
Every spring, Washington State Parks, WDFW, Access Fund, and Washington Climbers Coalition partner to identify the nest site of Index's Peregrine falcons. Once identified, a spot closure is instituted around the selected nest site through approximately July 15th. Report potential raptor nesting activity to email@example.com. Big thanks to WDFW and the climbers who are assisting with the Index Volunteer Raptor Monitoring Program each year, and to Patagonia & Feathered Friends for additional support of the Newhalem and Index raptor programs!
P1: ~5.8+. Start with a rightward traverse to a flake and then jam a hand-fist crack to a large ledge with a big fir tree.
(A more challenging first pitch is "The death of Abraham Lincoln by mounties" (5.11c), which goes up the steep face and corner just right of the regular first pitch. )
P2: ~5.9. Start up a pair of thin face cracks, but soon traverse left into the long corner system. The crux is either the thin crack or the traverse into the corner. This pitch is about 150 feet and ends at a bolted belay.
P3 (original): ~5.7. A much shorter pitch that goes up past a bolt to the top of the wall. Some root-grabbing at the end.
P3-P4 (better variation): 5.9. Traverse out right on the exposed ramp about 30' (takes gear). Belay at the bolted anchor. Then do a fantastic, steep 5.9 arete, protected by bolts. Ends at a large platform-overlook spot with a bolted anchor.
For the descent, the easiest is to rap the route. If you do the better variation finish, you can walk over to the other anchor to rap.