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Routes in Dana's Arch Area

Another Man's Car T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beat Box S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Brett Thompson and Scott Fuller Memorial Route, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crimson Eye , The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
DGS T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dana's Arch T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3
Golden Road S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heaven's Gate T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jungle Fun S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tempituous S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildest Dreams T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dave Gunstone, Darryl Cramer, Greg Olsen
Page Views: 1,011 total, 13/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on Oct 2, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

With the possible exception of "The back road", this is the easiest route to the top of the Upper Town Wall.

P1: ~5.8+. Start with a rightward traverse to a flake and then jam a hand-fist crack to a large ledge with a big fir tree.
(A more challenging first pitch is "The death of Abraham Lincoln by mounties" (5.11c), which goes up the steep face and corner just right of the regular first pitch. )

P2: ~5.9. Start up a pair of thin face cracks, but soon traverse left into the long corner system. The crux is either the thin crack or the traverse into the corner. This pitch is about 150 feet and ends at a bolted belay.

P3 (original): ~5.7. A much shorter pitch that goes up past a bolt to the top of the wall. Some root-grabbing at the end.

P3-P4 (better variation): 5.9. Traverse out right on the exposed ramp about 30' (takes gear). Belay at the bolted anchor. Then do a fantastic, steep 5.9 arete, protected by bolts. Ends at a large platform-overlook spot with a bolted anchor.

For the descent, the easiest is to rap the route. If you do the better variation finish, you can walk over to the other anchor to rap.

Location

To reach the base, go further left along the wall from the start to Back road and Jungle fun. Just after pulling up the hand line, trend right to a tree. Start with a rightward traverse to the corner-crack.

Protection

Nuts and cams to wide-fist size. For the second pitch, it may help to have doubles in the hand size, or at least doubles of large nuts.
DESCENT CAUTION - there are still several blocks (microwave sized) blocks that are very precariously balanced. One is to the left of the intermediate tree rap station, it would only take a flick of the finger to send this one tumbling to the ground. Another one is located about 50 ft above the intermediate tree rap station.

They both should be trundled as they are definitely widow makers. We didn't feel comfortable as it was a busy weekend at Index. 2 days ago
Zak Krenzer
Auburn, WA
  5.9
Zak Krenzer   Auburn, WA
  5.9
It's truly a shame that this route does not receive the traffic and attention that it deserves. If you are up for a little bushwacking and the feel of a FA, this is right up your alley!

We climbed this yesterday and it was among the dirtiest routes I've climbed (outside of the desert). This route is a truly a diamond in the rough, so long as you can get past the endless spiderwebs, moss, lichen, and foliage. The granite was wonderful, the movement was very fun, and the rock was solid!

My partner and I finished on the original P3, which was very short, but still enjoyable. The route is fun, with good jams, and takes mostly hand sized pieces. I didn't place a lot of nuts or small gear, but singles from Tips-#4 Camalot will give you plenty of options. Doubles in the handsizes (.75-#3) are recommended for the 45-meter second pitch, on which I was glad to have brought a #4 camalot.


DESCENT can be made with a single 70M rope. Rap from a tree with tat above the final 5.7 pitch or the chains located just left of the 5.9 variation top-out, down to the chains at the top of P2. From P2, rap about 25M to a tree directly below. From the tree, Rap to the climbers right towards the chains at the top of P1. Finally, Rap P1 to the ground. Take care when at the tree rap as there is a large, mini-fridge sized block that is loose and ready to come off.

If you're an upstanding steward of the area, you might bring along a brush and/or a broom and do a little cleaning to get this gem into better shape. GO CLIMB THIS! Aug 25, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9+
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9+
Surprising good even with the dirty first pitch. I may need to clean a direct start to this. We had a tag line and did one double rope rap back to big ledge. Sep 9, 2014
Jacob Smith
Seattle, WA
 
Jacob Smith   Seattle, WA
 
Two ropes are needed to rap the route (one 70m was about 20 ft short), with one you have to use an intermediate anchor on a tree to the left of the second pitch, which could probably be backed up/replaced.
Also, I'm not sure what's going on with the "two thin face cracks," we found one that was too thin to use and one that was neither thin nor a face crack that went directly into the corner.
Also, despite a moderate grade and good rock, this route is quite dirty, expect a bit of a grovel and bring lots of long slings. May 4, 2014