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Routes in Dana's Arch Area

Another Man's Car T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beat Box S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Brett Thompson and Scott Fuller Memorial Route, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crimson Eye , The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
DGS T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dana's Arch T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3
Golden Road S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heaven's Gate T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jungle Fun S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tempituous S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildest Dreams T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Michal Rynkiewicz, Chandler Davis, Ryan Hoover
Page Views: 7,020 total · 335/month
Shared By: Ryan Hoover on May 2, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

An excellent route that follows the obvious splitter corner above lamplighter to the top of the wall. Although this may be one of the easiest full length upper wall routes, this climb requires heavy use of small, but never dangerous gear through sustained airy climbing. Not to be missed!

P1 - 5.10c Climb Lamplighter to the top of the chimney. Traverse left and follow up the slab to the anchor.

P2 - 5.9 The Frog Corner: Steep juggy crack climbing on perfect gear makes for one of the best 5.9 pitches at Index. From here, your gear need only fit typical hand-sized and smaller cracks. So leave all gear from #3 and up at the top anchor.

P3 - 5.10 Pull a steep roof past a few bolts. Fun steep climbing on small gear follows. Finish the pitch on a leftward seam and follow up to the chains.

P4 - 5.10- Climb straight up above the belay placing small cams. Clip a bolt and follow crimps up and right until reaching twin cracks. Traverse left at the bolt and continue up steep terrain to the anchor. Leave all gear at the top anchor.

P5 - 5.10- Clip all bolts up fun crimpy climbing to the top.

Location

Start up Lamplighter. Break left at the top of the chimney.

Protection

12 draws, rack of nuts including brassies, doubles to 2", single #3/#4. One could bring extra's to .4 if you want some extra comfort. Rappel with a 70 meter rope.
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
If you want to link P4&5 I would extend on the bolt where your traverse left or use a revolver to cut back on drag. Good face climbing on those pitches, makes you think. Oct 16, 2017
Ashley Weisman
Seattle, WA
  5.10+
Ashley Weisman   Seattle, WA
  5.10+
A tour of the Index's many fine qualities -- 10+ burly wide crack/chimney, splitter dihedral, and delicate edges with exciting exposure and awesome views. Highly recommended outing. Sep 13, 2017
Amazing new route!! Protection wherever needed and good variety of crack and face climbing. Absolutely relished the patina style face on p. 4. Thank you FA team. 10d/11a seems fair for on-sight grade. 93 degrees today, but still nice climbing after 5pm. Aug 11, 2017
Michael Carter
  5.10c/d
Michael Carter  
  5.10c/d
great route! can't believe it took me so long to climb it!

Some rack notes: We did not place a single nut or RP on the entire route. We were able to place cams whenever an extra piece was needed. a double rack to #2 BD and single #3 and #4 was nice. We left the #3 & #4 at the top of pitch 2, and if we did it again would also leave the second #1, and #2. Below the BD 0.5, we had doubles of Metolius which came in handy! and the last pitch was only bolts. rapping went smoothly, and we were barely able to get down from the top of pitch 2 all the way to the ground with our 70m rope! Jul 19, 2017
RafaelH
 
RafaelH  
 
Finally got some time.
Must say, a very fun route, it is just FUN! Loved it!
Lamplighter is a very typical gym style jug-pull with a bolt at the crux and is 10b if dry. Next is a superb 5.9, much better than Godzilla (yes, I said it :). P3, P4 and P5 are excellent, no runouts, no superficial bolts, P3 crux takes a bomber 0.75, and there is a bolt right after. I did not place any nuts on the route, not sure if #3 was used either. Gear does not have to be doubled up, but green and yellow Aliens could be used more than once on P3.
There is a really nice, flat and spacious ledge at the top with stone benches!
With more repeats and chalk the route will max at 10c. Really worth repeating, with wine. Aug 21, 2016
Chris Mutzel
Seattle, Washington
Chris Mutzel   Seattle, Washington
Adding my opinion to all the notes on gear here....
-I think even a double rack is overkill. If you are confident at the grade, singles to BD #3 would be fine, given how many bolts there are, even for lamplighter...
-I don't think we ever even placed the number 3, as there are plenty of other options on the 5.9 pitch and lamplighter. Jul 22, 2016
MorganH
 
MorganH  
 
Fun climbing. The 4th pitch was super fun, and the rest were worth climbing. Lamplighter is definitely the crux. I linked the 4th pitch into the 5th pitch without any trouble, it's a nice straight line. 70m rope just barely got us to the ground from the top of the frog corner with rope stretch.

A single set of cams up through a #3 Camelot is fine, with a few small nuts to supplement. Jul 17, 2016
Loganator
blue van, on the highway to no
Loganator   blue van, on the highway to no
Did the route this weekend. Steller climbing as always! The saga of the upper town wall continues with this masterpiece! My 2 cents:

10+/11- is fair grade. I found 3 bouldery cruxes on pitches 3 and 4 that could all be the one or two hardest move on the route. Each move has perfect gear with clean falls. And not one of those moves is any harder than the lamplighter 1st pitch so... I guess its 10+, right?

I stitched up P4, causing rope drag to be a bit of a problem. Knowing the protection on this route would probably make it feel much easier.

We didn't place the number 4. Doubles up to #1, single 2 and single 3 would send this thing safely. I brought a few offset aliens which worked well in pitches 3+4. And my brass offsets are worth their weight in gold! Jul 5, 2016
Ryan Hoover  
 
I'll update the gear list, we had a mess of gear with us and couldn't remember what we used! Jun 28, 2016
AlpineDave  
 
Fun route and p3 is fantastic, especially for that moderate of a grade on the UTW. I agree with those above saying that a double rack will work just fine with singles of #3 and #4. You could place triples in the red C3 (aka yellow X4), but a nut or two would also suffice. Jun 27, 2016
Alex Ford
Seattle, Washington
 
Alex Ford   Seattle, Washington
 
Climbed on the second sunny day after heavy rain; we found the cruxes of P3 seeping (but climbable) and the rest of the route dry. For reference, there were still limited seeps on several LTW routes the morning we climbed.

Excellent face climbing on the last three pitches. Very enjoyable movement, great holds appearing when needed, and a fantastic position. We felt that the route could be very safely led with a standard rack with doubles from 00TCU/.1X4 through #2 C4 and singles in #3 & #4 C4. Jun 21, 2016
wayne wallace
Seattle
  5.10+
wayne wallace   Seattle
  5.10+
I dont understand how anyone that can climb this route wouldn't enjoy it? It is fantastic, and will only get better with traffic. I didnt need quite the gear list that this page suggests either.
I did a journal post on my site :
https://waynewallace.wordpress.com/2016/06/14/brett-thompson-and-scott-fuller-memorial-route-utw-index/ Jun 13, 2016
Chandler D
  5.10
Chandler D  
  5.10
Fine/ok??that blows my mind of course we all have our own opinions but i have been climbing for 9 years and those fine /ok pitches are awesome i am truely blown away i hope more people get on it soon who appreciate all styles of climbing because it seems as if your not the right person to judge sport style climbing im glad u had a ok day though and voiced your opinion i was wondering if others would think it is as quality as we did. Guess not everyone. I really hope your guys opinions dont cause others to overlook this beautiful route. Yall should hop on the crimson eye much more sporty but i would be curious of your opinions Jun 8, 2016
kathyc chung
  5.10c
kathyc chung  
  5.10c
Just did this yesterday. First two pitches are great! As a note, a single 70m will just barely get you down all the way from the top of the second pitch - tie knots.

Last three pitches did not seem to "fit" with the first two...lots and lots of sport climbing moves (some awkward)...gear and bolts are so-so...generally the sport moves seem a bit fragmented to get to the top.

Still an ok day out, glad to get on something new. If you are a 10/+ crack climber the first two pitches are great while you wait for the DHLA queue. If you are 10+ sport climber the last three pitches are fine/ok (but got to get through the first two :)). Jun 8, 2016
Chandler D
  5.10
Chandler D  
  5.10
This climb is really really good worthy of Scott and bretts names they would be psyched May 3, 2016
James Ellis
Seattle, Washington
James Ellis   Seattle, Washington
I didn't know Scott but Brett was a dear friend. Thanks for this, guys. Can't wait to climb it.

Question, when you say triples to .4 does that mean triples all the way from the smallest c3/tcu size? Are ballnuts and/or RPs needed? May 2, 2016
Nice work, I'm so impressed with all the new routing you guys are doing together as a team. So stoked ! May 2, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
It's sad to hear about your passed friends, but if you like, you can click "add text" to add a new section to tell us all a little about them.

I'm looking forward to trying this route. Thanks for cleaning and equipping it. Maybe someday we'll get Darryl out there to help clean Lamplighter.

So, the #3 refers to a Black Diamond cam? Totem? Link? (Note - this info doesn't help me, as I have only ancient gear, but might help others.) May 2, 2016
Ryan Hoover  
 
Thanks, John. The route is to remember two good friends who have passed. The bolt your seeing is on the way to the anchor for Another Man's Car, which is where the frog corner starts up and left. As for a #3, wide hands to small fist would be correct.

Lamplighter free looks great, but would require some serious vertical gardening skills! May 2, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Looks like a fantastic new route, and so nice to see the moderate grade.

A few questions -

1) What is the story with Brett Thompson and Scott Fuller?

2) On pitch 1, where is the top of the chimney in relation to the point where Heaven's gate p1 goes right? (I can see the new bolt in the picture, but can't place the location exactly.)

3) What do you mean by a "#3"? Is this basically, a fist-size cam?


Nice find! Darryl had long talked about freeing the full Lamplighter, but it looks like you discovered an even better route.
May 2, 2016