Confused for Daze
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Type: | Sport, 45 ft (14 m) |
FA: | FA corner: ?? FA C4D: Stamati Anagnostou |
Page Views: | 1,676 total · 32/month |
Shared By: | Stig gles on Jul 11, 2020 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
What in tarnation?!
The striking, steep and surprisingly easy-to-miss alabaster corner is listed in the guidebook as Mystery Route A4. The aid route ascended the full corner on bashies, pins and buttonheads through the blank white face above. Confused leaves the mystery route to join with rails that lead to the finish holds in the middle of the face. Could there be a 5.14 extension?
The minimally featured corner holds the technical crux of the route on small pin scars and artful stemming and pressing, followed by a truly joyful sequence reminiscent of both Stern Farmer and Numbah Ten but with a flavor all its own. A unique series of moves leaving the corner and the gymnastic face climbing that immediately follows is the physical and redpoint crux. Traverse with difficulty on the twin rails towards a beautiful quartz studded face on crimps and crystal pockets to finish. Hard end of the grade.
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