Type: Sport, 45 ft (14 m)
FA: FA corner: ?? FA C4D: Stamati Anagnostou
Page Views: 1,676 total · 32/month
Shared By: Stig gles on Jul 11, 2020
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

What in tarnation?! Suggest change

The striking, steep and surprisingly easy-to-miss alabaster corner is listed in the guidebook as Mystery Route A4. The aid route ascended the full corner on bashies, pins and buttonheads through the blank white face above. Confused leaves the mystery route to join with rails that lead to the finish holds in the middle of the face. Could there be a 5.14 extension?

The minimally featured corner holds the technical crux of the route on small pin scars and artful stemming and pressing, followed by a truly joyful sequence reminiscent of both Stern Farmer and Numbah Ten but with a flavor all its own. A unique series of moves leaving the corner and the gymnastic face climbing that immediately follows is the physical and redpoint crux. Traverse with difficulty on the twin rails towards a beautiful quartz studded face on crimps and crystal pockets to finish. Hard end of the grade.

Protection Suggest change

Six draws, fixed draws at the crux. Consider using the old bashies as directionals to work the crux sections. Most of the route can be easily pulled through or aided.

Location Suggest change

Walk past Another Man's Car and the imposing roofs adjacent. As you summit the little ramp, look to your right and there it is!

Photos

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