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5.15- YDS 9a+ French 36 Ewbanks XI+ UIAA 37 ZA E11 7c British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in (d) Dana's Arch Area
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Another Man's Car T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Back Road, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beat Box S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Brett Thompson and Scott Fuller Memorial Route, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Confused for Daze S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Crimson Eye, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dana's Arch S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dana's Arch Complete (Aid) A3 |
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DGS T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Golden Road S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Heaven's Gate T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jungle Fun S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Legends Ride Free T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Open Project S 5.15- 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c |
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Pencil Thin Mustache T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Psilocybe Cyanescens T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ruthless Objectification of Dan Kluskiewicz, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Slug Within, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Tempitchuous S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wildest Dreams T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 47.82354, -121.56683 |
| FA: | Equipped: Ryan Hoover & Stig |
| Page Views: | 463 total · 46/month |
| Shared By: | Stig gles on Nov 27, 2025 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
An exquisite series of rails strikes through a perfectly uniform 35° panel at the top of the UTW. I took a drone flight over here one day because of the steepness of the panel and the near inability to see what's on it from anywhere on the ground. What a delight it was to come across this. Ryan and I got out as soon as we could to bolt it and play around on it. Frankly, neither of us are even remotely close to capable in relation to this route. I cannot imagine myself doing even the easiest moves at the top. Some talented soul will, however, absolutely be able to put it all together.
Logistically, there are multitudinous options for an approach and the belay hang is actually very nice, on a comfy wide ledge with commanding views of Mt. Index, the town, Mt. Baring and beyond. It stays in shade through the morning, as the panel shies towards the west, meaning it will have a longer season than most routes here.
The only detractor, maybe, is that it looks like you could traverse in from the left to start higher on the rails in one place, or climb the little flake at the beginning on the left, but maybe that's cool too. The grand prize is starting on the jug just above the belay and doing the direct line.
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