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Golden Road
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 69 votes
Type: | Sport, 380 ft (115 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 7,671 total · 39/month |
Shared By: | blakeherrington on Sep 16, 2008 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
A modern classic! This is an amazing climb, with good variety and beautiful stone. All pitches are just under 30m and can be quickly rapped with a 60m rope.
P1: Boulder past two bolts, then walk right on the ledge to an arete. Cruxy moves bring one up, into the crack, and to the belay just up and left of a sloping ledge stance. (Note, this pitch may work better broken into two pitches, with a ledge fall possible if done in one pitch). This pitch is now 5.10 and takes no gear.
P2: Delicate and sequency climbing leads up past a flake, and rightward through an intricate sequence of moves back onto the arete. 5.11
P3:Up the arete on impossibly good holds, with a short crux near the end of the pitch. 5.10+
P4: Stem or smear your way up to the base of the roof, and reach high for holds to get you through. Continue up to the belay. 5.11-
P5: Up a cruxy layback sequence on sharp rock, then past the big roof on big holds. Tenuous climbing above the roof keeps you on your toes until the chains. 5.11+
P1: Boulder past two bolts, then walk right on the ledge to an arete. Cruxy moves bring one up, into the crack, and to the belay just up and left of a sloping ledge stance. (Note, this pitch may work better broken into two pitches, with a ledge fall possible if done in one pitch). This pitch is now 5.10 and takes no gear.
P2: Delicate and sequency climbing leads up past a flake, and rightward through an intricate sequence of moves back onto the arete. 5.11
P3:Up the arete on impossibly good holds, with a short crux near the end of the pitch. 5.10+
P4: Stem or smear your way up to the base of the roof, and reach high for holds to get you through. Continue up to the belay. 5.11-
P5: Up a cruxy layback sequence on sharp rock, then past the big roof on big holds. Tenuous climbing above the roof keeps you on your toes until the chains. 5.11+
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