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Routes in Dana's Arch Area

Another Man's Car T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beat Box S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Brett Thompson and Scott Fuller Memorial Route, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crimson Eye , The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
DGS T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dana's Arch T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3
Golden Road S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heaven's Gate T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jungle Fun S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tempituous S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildest Dreams T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,712 total, 33/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Sep 16, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

A modern classic! This is an amazing climb, with good variety and beautiful stone. All pitches are just under 30m and can be quickly rapped with a 60m rope.

P1: Boulder past two bolts, then walk right on the ledge to an arete. Cruxy moves bring one up, into the crack, and to the belay just up and left of a sloping ledge stance. (Note, this pitch may work better broken into two pitches, with a ledge fall possible if done in one pitch). 5.11+

P2: Delicate and sequency climbing leads up past a flake, and rightward through an intricate sequence of moves back onto the arete. 5.11

P3:Up the arete on impossibly good holds, with a short crux near the end of the pitch. 5.10+

P4: Stem or smear your way up to the base of the roof, and reach high for holds to get you through. Continue up to the belay. 5.11-

P5: Up a cruxy layback sequence on sharp rock, then past the big roof on big holds. Tenuous climbing above the roof keeps you on your toes until the chains. 5.11+

Location

This route follows the plumb-line arete to the right of Heavens Gate, and left of Davis-Holland. The route begins on a huge boulder/flake leaning against the wall, and stays just left of the chimney system for its entire length.

Protection

All new bolts and all anchors are double bolted and set for rapping.

Photos

Todd Anderson
Seattle, WA
  5.11c
Todd Anderson   Seattle, WA
  5.11c
Did this yesterday 7/31. Amazing face climbing and high-friction rock that you won't find at the lower walls. No trad gear is required for P1, or any other pitch; 16 draws were sufficient, although 60cm runners were nice to extend P1 between the boulder problem and the chimney. Don't fall clipping the second bolt off the ledge on P1, though. Aug 1, 2016
James Ellis
Seattle, Washington
  5.11c
James Ellis   Seattle, Washington
  5.11c
I read your account on RCNW. Yikes. Glad you're alright.

It reminds me of an accident on El Cap when I was down there a few years ago. Similar situation, leader placed a cam behind a block that had been yanked on countless times. The block came loose and cut his rope. You just can't anticipate that shit... Nov 24, 2015
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
About that block not killing anyone -- And nobody could possibly be more grateful than myself.

It was a wet day, and I had aided under and around that block. We fell together, but I was held by the bolt to the left. The piece underneath got mangled, but Darryl (who was belaying way off to the left) and I were also shocked that the rope wasn't cut. Nov 23, 2015
James Ellis
Seattle, Washington
  5.11c
James Ellis   Seattle, Washington
  5.11c
Great fun. Pitch 1 is still pretty dirty. Try not to look up if you're following this pitch. Pitch 2 was tenuous and gave me a run for my money during the onsight. The crux pitch was spectacular with awesome exposure and 3 mini cruxes. Still amazed that no one died when that block pulled off. Nov 23, 2015
jonah
 
jonah  
 
Instant classic. Climbed it with Nic on a lucky sunny t-shirt day January 31. Thanks for putting this up, Benjit! Must've been a ton of work and $, but it's fantastic. Can rap to the ground from the top of pitch 2 with a 70. Feb 2, 2015
Joe Sambataro
Seattle, WA
 
Joe Sambataro   Seattle, WA
 
Great climb. Quick note to add: bring a light single rack to #2 for the first pitch. You can pick up the gear on your way down. May 1, 2014
Keenan Waeschle
Bozeman, MT
Keenan Waeschle   Bozeman, MT
I thought the crux of P1 was around the second bolt, it's a long way in between the good jams in pinscars and the feet are non existent. A good one to do if you're up there. Jul 19, 2012
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
The upper part of the first pitch now goes up the corner and avoids the two upper bolts (and avoids the original 5.11+ crux). The large white scar is where a giant flake fell off, making the original finish practically impossible. So, the crux is now either the bouldery 5.10 face moves off the ground or the traverse from the corner to the anchor chains at the end of the pitch (~5.10?). Oct 4, 2011