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Routes in Black Rose

A Rose is a Rose T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Attention K-Mart Shoppers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Magic Woman S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Rose S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dynamite Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fat Hippos S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pink Canoe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prescription T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Red Rose T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tip-A-Canoe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yuji Feet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Tristan Higbee, 7/31/09
Page Views: 699 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Jul 31, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Thin, crimpy, unprotected slab climbing takes you to a chockstone where you can get a piece of gear in. Just don't fall before you get there! Go up and left from there, finishing on Black Magic Woman.

For the full effect, avoid the crack/corner on the right and don't use the chimney or the Black Rose slab on the left until you get to the chockstone.

Location

This route starts up the obvious slab just right of Black Magic Woman. There's some old graffiti down low on the left side.

Protection

A #2 (gold) Camalot is the first piece and a I used a .5 Camalot (purple) for the second piece. Lower or rap off of Black Rose's anchors.

Photos

Andrew Seegmiller
Orem UT
 
Andrew Seegmiller   Orem UT
 
first couple holds broke back in March sometime, fun but a little to sketchy for my liking Jun 24, 2010
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
It was quarried a few years ago (I think it was in 2004). The big ol' block/slab that's visible on the ground used to be standing upright right where the route goes. Aug 2, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Was that section quarried or did the block in there fall out on its own?
Look spooky... Aug 2, 2009
I belayed Tristan on this today and I was scared just watching him. I was "belaying" but it wasn't much good. Ok, so the "belay" was mostly a spot that wouldn't have been worth very much. In the picture, you can see the landing. I might have been able to push him somewhere, but I'm still not sure where. Due to the landing, this might warrant an "X" rating.
I have never seen him shake so much. even though the cleaned holds had gotten way more positive, you still have to make a few thin and tricky sequences near the top. Even on TR it is really tempting to grab the corner to the right or left.
I would recommend a few crash pads at least! Jul 31, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
For years this slab has called out to be climbed, but the large, unstable chockstones above it prevented it from being bolted. (You could continue up and over the blocks but the Black Magic Woman finish is cleaner.) I TRed the thing a couple months ago and was put off because I didn't want to add bolts to it but at the same time, there was no gear. Also, the holds were pretty friable. After cleaning off the loosest rock and holds, she was ready to go.

This thing was pretty scary. I was shaking pretty bad as I was climbing it! Definitely more mental climbing than physical. There's no pro for the first 20 feet and there are several jagged rocks at the bottom. I toproped it a couple times before leading it, making sure I knew exactly where I wanted to go. It's not the best climbing around, but it's ok. Again, the mental challenge is what makes this route. Jul 31, 2009