Avg: 1.9 from 20 votes
Routes in Black Rose
|A Rose is a Rose T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Attention K-Mart Shoppers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Black Magic Woman S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Black Rose S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Dynamite Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Fat Hippos S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Pink Canoe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Prescription T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Red Rose T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Tip-A-Canoe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Yuji Feet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|Page Views:||2,247 total, 17/month|
|Shared By:||Perin Blanchard on Oct 22, 2006|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionA made-up name, but pretty good climbing.
Apparently the Ruckmans made up the name Tip-a-Canoe for their guidebook. It was either named something else or not named previously.
Anyway, it was a dirty, loose, and potentially dangerous route (dangerous primarily to the belayer). However, it has since been cleaned of most larger, loose items, and is now a pretty fun climb.
Start to the right of the bolted routes on the right-side slab in the obvious corner crack. Follow the crack around a large flake and then into a corner where the crack dries up. There is still a good cam placement, and also a large horn that could be slung. Arrive at a narrow ledge and follow one of two options:
One: Stay in the corner, climb around a large flake and arrive at the ending section where the corner crack is now an offwidth. There is protection to be had in small cracks on the face so large pieces are not necessary. Bear left at the top and arrive at the belay location.
Two: Traverse left a bit and follow a broken crack system up to the belay location.
Build an anchor (a triple-length sling is very useful) and belay the second up.
LocationScramble up loose stuff to the right side of Black Rose. There are two bolted routes on the right slab; Tip-a-Canoe is to the right of these.
Walk off north (or more accurately, down-climb some 4th class terrain to the north), or there are chains about 20 feet to the right which you can rappell off of for the descent.
ProtectionThere is bomber pro until about half-way (medium nuts, small cams; then the flake cracks temporarily dry up leaving a good, medium cam placement and a horn for a marginal sling.
After the ledge good pro again abounds in the corner crack.
Save gear for an anchor at the top. I used a small nut, a #3 Camalot, and a triple-length sling around a very large horn.