[Hide Comment] For years this slab has called out to be climbed, but the large, unstable chockstones above it prevented it from being bolted. (You could continue up and over the blocks but the Black Magic Woman finish is cleaner.) I TRed the thing a couple months ago and was put off because I didn't want to add bolts to it but at the same time, there was no gear. Also, the holds were pretty friable. After cleaning off the loosest rock and holds, she was ready to go.

This thing was pretty scary. I was shaking pretty bad as I was climbing it! Definitely more mental climbing than physical. There's no pro for the first 20 feet and there are several jagged rocks at the bottom. I toproped it a couple times before leading it, making sure I knew exactly where I wanted to go. It's not the best climbing around, but it's ok. Again, the mental challenge is what makes this route. Jul 31, 2009

[Hide Comment] I belayed Tristan on this today and I was scared just watching him. I was "belaying" but it wasn't much good. Ok, so the "belay" was mostly a spot that wouldn't have been worth very much. In the picture, you can see the landing. I might have been able to push him somewhere, but I'm still not sure where. Due to the landing, this might warrant an "X" rating.
I have never seen him shake so much. even though the cleaned holds had gotten way more positive, you still have to make a few thin and tricky sequences near the top. Even on TR it is really tempting to grab the corner to the right or left.
I would recommend a few crash pads at least! Jul 31, 2009

[Hide Comment] Was that section quarried or did the block in there fall out on its own?
Look spooky... Aug 2, 2009

[Hide Comment] It was quarried a few years ago (I think it was in 2004). The big ol' block/slab that's visible on the ground used to be standing upright right where the route goes. Aug 2, 2009

[Hide Comment] first couple holds broke back in March sometime, fun but a little to sketchy for my liking Jun 24, 2010