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Routes in Black Rose

A Rose is a Rose T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Attention K-Mart Shoppers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Magic Woman S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Rose S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dynamite Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fat Hippos S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pink Canoe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prescription T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Red Rose T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tip-A-Canoe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yuji Feet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Boone Speed
Page Views: 1,085 total · 10/month
Shared By: Brian Koralewski on Aug 3, 2009 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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It seems like I've never seen anyone climb this route. And it's the last route in the Black Rose area to be added to Mt. Project. Strange, given it is one of the most accessible routes in the canyon.

When I climbed it years ago, it was all hang-dog- the 1st 11c I ever tried. Since it was just outfitted with new bolts (see comments below), I guess it's time to go climb this again!


5 bolts, chain anchors.


This is the left/north face of the Black Rose formation, next to the little cave/overhang.


John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
I heard an interesting story about this route. Jeff Pedersen once watched a young 16 year old climber, Yuji Hirayama, do a route at Smith Rocks. Yuji wrapped his feet around the formation in order to climb it. This same "feet wrapping" technique is helpful on this route, otherwise the route is 5.13b. As a side note, Yuji Hirayama has since become quite an accomplished climber (… ). Find amazing videos of Yuji san on YouTube. Aug 3, 2009
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
1/4" button heads replaced with 3/8" Powers bolts 7/9/09. Aug 4, 2009
James Leavy
Provo, Uah
James Leavy   Provo, Uah
Has anyone climbed the 5.13 variation? Sep 10, 2015
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
DK at Mountainworks told me about the 5.13b variation. Not sure where that rating would come from unless someone has done it. Maybe DK could comment on that. Sep 10, 2015
Austin Goff
Winston-Salem, NC
Austin Goff   Winston-Salem, NC
Fa Boone Speed... Boone watched yuji climbing in Smith and bolted this route naming it after him. Oct 9, 2015

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