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Routes in Black Rose

A Rose is a Rose T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Attention K-Mart Shoppers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Magic Woman S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Rose S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dynamite Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fat Hippos S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pink Canoe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prescription T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Red Rose T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tip-A-Canoe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yuji Feet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,123 total, 14/month
Shared By: Lee Jensen on Oct 9, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The main detached slab on the left of the Black Rose area. The slab is directly to the south of the main trail as you encounter the first rock formations about 10 minutes walk from the parking area.

From the first time you notice this slab, and how could you miss it, you will want to climb it. It is often climbed as a top rope.

The route starts on the right side of the slab just to the left of the arete. Climb up the face using the arete and then follow the diagonal crack across the face of the rock.

On lead this route will get your heart pumping. The protection is good, but very hard to see and difficult to place because you will be pulling up and to the right of the left/down facing crack. Good footwork is essential in order to keep opposition with your layback.

Protection

Small and medium nuts and a couple .5-1 inch cams, 1 bolt. Double chain anchors at the top. The last links on the chains are very thin. As is common practice on all top ropes, please use draws when top roping this route instead of threading directly through the chains.
Thomas Holmes
Utah
  5.10a
Thomas Holmes   Utah
  5.10a
Years of walking passed this, finally decided to climb it. Definitely had my attention for a couple moves. Small, tricky but good gear. Surprisingly fun lead with a decent runout to top it off. Oct 21, 2017
Light .50
  5.10
Light .50  
  5.10
I don't think this route see's much trad action. However, it is well worth doing on gear. A fun and engaging lead. Super Rocks, DMM Alloy Offsets and a blue TCU protect this climb well. Apr 6, 2012
The crux is over fast and well protected. This was one of the more popular routes back in the "Trad day" times (what ever happened to that DK?). The difficulty eases quite a bit after the crux and so it doesn't feel really all that bad to run it out. May 21, 2008