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Routes in Black Rose

A Rose is a Rose T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Attention K-Mart Shoppers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Magic Woman S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Rose S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dynamite Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fat Hippos S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pink Canoe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prescription T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Red Rose T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tip-A-Canoe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yuji Feet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,280 total · 21/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 15, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

An exciting, well-protected line following a natural weakness up a steep quartzite face.

Fun face climbing with sidepulls, small crimps, optional slopers, and mostly small, somewhat tricky footholds.

Starts with jugs and big feet and quickly changes to thinner climbing after the first bolt. After the fifth bolt it's back to jugs and easy cruising to the anchors.

Protection

5 bolts, double-ring anchors.

Location

This route is found on the right side of the Black Rose area, and is the left of the two bolted lines.

Photos

I wonder what this was like back in the day...back before it had bolts. Or did it always...? May 21, 2008
Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
  5.10a
Christopher Sorensen   Provo, UT
  5.10a
I thought this climb was tons of fun. I just wish it were twice as long. Apr 28, 2009
Thomas Holmes
Utah
  5.10b/c
Thomas Holmes   Utah
  5.10b/c
really fun climb but its really short. crux was the 4th bolt for me. on top rope i went right over but positioning for clipping took me a few. Jul 24, 2009
Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
  5.10a
Christopher Sorensen   Provo, UT
  5.10a
Doing this again, I agree, the crux is getting to the fourth bolt, the only spot where there aren't really good holds in the crack. This climb is a lot of fun. Aug 2, 2009
Lionel
Provo, UT
  5.10a
Lionel   Provo, UT
  5.10a
Great climb. the foot holds are small but are useable. the crack is great for a left hand hold and once you get past the crux (which is around the 4th bolt) there are gorgeous hand holds towards the top. very fun climb Sep 5, 2009
The little block at the start (at the top of the double cracks) is a little wobbly. Aug 21, 2010
Tyson Taylor
  5.10a/b
Tyson Taylor  
  5.10a/b
My first lead of this season. This used to be one of my favorites but it had me nervous this year. Ever come back and wonder if all your winter training did any good? The wobbly hold still seems pretty solid. Mar 3, 2011
BJB
Texas
 
BJB   Texas
 
Great but short. The crux is a little disconcerting getting to the fourth bolt. I've found that if you just move confidently and quickly you can get your hand to a better hold and then clip it with ease but it involves getting higher than most people might be comfortable with. May 25, 2011
Eli Harry
  5.10b
Eli Harry  
  5.10b
The loose block is still holding strong. We've climbed this one a lot in the past month. The crux has been beating me over and over and I finally got it clean today!
(SPOILER ALERT!) for me I ended up smearing that right foot and instead of trying like crazy to hang onto that right-hand nub simply move your right hand left into the crack above the bolt, clip when you can after you get more steady. Seen lots of folks struggle with this one, lots of falls on it, and I've taken 2 myself! Oct 20, 2011
Rob Job
Provo, UT
5.10a/b
Rob Job   Provo, UT
5.10a/b
Fun climb. Feet disappear in the middle. Good fun. May 2, 2012
Canyon Copa  
 
Great warm up for those just getting back into lead climbing. Really fun crux section at the fourth bolt. May 29, 2012
Mark Lewis
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10b
Mark Lewis   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10b
Fun slab climbing, if that's your thing. Thin hand holds; good foot work and some nerve-wracking smearing will get you to the top. Good bolt placement, all new, shiny hardware. Is in the shade during July until around Noon. After that it's exposed and hot, time to move up the canyon to some of the shady crags. Jul 9, 2012
Diana Richardson
  5.10a
Diana Richardson  
  5.10a
This route made me wish I had better shoes... May 29, 2015
Brody Smith  
 
Cool route. Make sure to trust your feet in the crux and keep high feet. If you climb it before it rains again i chalked marked a couple important feet for ya. Technical for the grade. Still 10a. May 18, 2016
great route. would be more fun if it was longer. hint for the crux: just send it. Oct 11, 2016

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