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Routes in Black Rose

A Rose is a Rose T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Attention K-Mart Shoppers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Magic Woman S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Rose S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dynamite Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fat Hippos S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pink Canoe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prescription T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Red Rose T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tip-A-Canoe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yuji Feet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Bill Brow, Jim Brow, 1974
Page Views: 2,438 total, 21/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 25, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

A nice gear route up a slabby face with plenty of hand and footholds. This route was first done decades ago and originally went to the top of the slab, but with the addition of chain anchors it is unlikely many people will climb the last ten feet since a walkoff/downclimb is required.

On the right slab of the Black Rose area, start about 5 feet to the right of the left edge of the slab area. Find a shallow, round dynamite hole and start up. Follow the small crack system more-or-less straight up to the chain anchors.

Location

Just to the right of the “hole” between the two Black Rose slabs.

Protection

Small to medium nuts, a small cam or two, chain anchors (or go to the top and belay from there).

Photos

Thomas Holmes
Utah
 
Thomas Holmes   Utah
 
This route is pretty clean these days. Very easy and good climbing with thought provoking gear. If it were sport, it would see a ton of traffic. Jun 23, 2017
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Pretty fun, but has a kind of alpine feel with how much loose rock there is in the cracks. Make sure your belayer has a helmet and doesn't stand right below you. Mar 7, 2014
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Really fun route. I've taken beginners on this thing a few times and they all could do it and enjoyed it. As crisco said, don't forget to take your nuts. Jul 30, 2008
Well worth it. But I wish I had brought nuts (The gear, not the anatomy)! Go with nuts not cams. May 21, 2008