Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Jonah Small, Brandon Wilde, Tyson Thorpe
Page Views: 653 total · 48/month
Shared By: Jonah Small on Oct 27, 2018
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Right off the trail - This is a chimney climb behind the left flake of Black Rose. You climb two bolts then meet back up to finish on the last two bolts and anchors of Black Magic Woman. A top rope can be set by hiking up and around the back, just as with the other routes on this flake - it is just recommended that you flick the climber's rope into the chimney before starting up. I would also recommend lowering off the main face of the flake and repeating the previous step for the next person. The finish is the exact same as for Black Magic Woman, meaning that it is easy (feels like 5.6) but is run out. I wouldn't recommend this as a first 5.7 lead - the finish is a little heady.

Location

Located behind the large detached flake on the left side of the crag. Literally starts behind Black Magic Woman.

Protection

Four bolts (two in chimney and two on the face) and a two-bolt anchor

Photos