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Routes in Black Rose

A Rose is a Rose T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Attention K-Mart Shoppers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Magic Woman S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Rose S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dynamite Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fat Hippos S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pink Canoe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prescription T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Red Rose T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tip-A-Canoe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yuji Feet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,153 total, 10/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Jul 30, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This is a fun, easy little trad line that doesn't get done as much as it should. There's no real crux--just moderate climbing throughout.

Location

This route is almost exactly between Black Rose and Red Slab (hence the name). It is directly underneath the Ska Block.

This actually might be the closest and easiest-to-get-to route in the canyon.

Protection

Small nuts and cams (TCUs and C3s would work great). There are camouflaged tan chains on top that you can't see when you're under the route.

Getting on top to toprope the route or its variations is pretty easy. The easiest way is to climb to the base of the Ska Block via easy 4th class scrambling behind (east) of Red Rose. Alternatively, you can scramble up to the right of the route (between this route and Red Slab).

Photos

jared jaynes  
 
This route is super fun to climb it was my first in the canyon and i solo it all the time...
the scramble to the east get a bit exposed at the top near the anchors so i carry a couple of draws to clip in early as i transition to the face to set up my gear. rock is very sold and great when i just want a quick climb and get second or thirds in for a work out...

for top rope there is a bit of rope drag but not bad, for solo i set up a sling just above the anchor for a back up... anchors are solid and chain are in great condition, i don't climb trad so no comment on gear

video link

youtube.com/watch?v=Pr2V6AO… Mar 16, 2012
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Is there another 5.5 quartzite trad line in the canyon? Maybe (I can't think of one off the top of my head...), but it's probably not this good. Sure, it's not much when you compare it to a nice 5.11 limestone sport route, but for what it is, I think it's pretty darn good. Hence the 3 stars.

I'm not sure who did the FA of this route. As can be seen in the topo pic, there is an old, rusty quarter inch bolt 10 feet up and right of the anchors that I placed. It's fun to look at, but I wouldn't touch the thing. The route was a little dirty when I got on it. I cleaned it up a bit, but there are still slightly dirty spots. It'll clean up if it gets more ascents. Overall, the rock is pretty darn solid.

In addition to not knowing who did the FA, I don't know if this route has a name. Seeing as how it's right between Black Rose and Red Slab, I thought that Red Rose was a fitting name. If anyone knows the FA info or the real name, let me know.

I placed the anchors and then cleaned the route on rappel. I then soloed it, so don't take my gear list above as perfect. Most of the cracks are pretty darn thin (I don't think there's anything much bigger than finger size), but there are jugs everywhere. Jul 30, 2008