Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Black Rose

A Rose is a Rose T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Attention K-Mart Shoppers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Magic Woman S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Rose S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dynamite Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fat Hippos S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pink Canoe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prescription T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Red Rose T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tip-A-Canoe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yuji Feet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jim Knight
Page Views: 1,193 total, 10/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 25, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start on the north-facing, broken area at the left of the slab area on the right of the Black Rose area. Good starting protection can be placed in a crack on the left (a #2 DMM or Friend fits well). The climbing is easier to the right of the crack; however, the natural tendency is to move left, closer to the protection.

Tricky feet and somewhat slopey hands lead to a good stance from which to place a questionable cam, and another move or two allows a good cam.

Bear left a bit and find the curving, rightward-trending crack that leads towards the bolted anchor. Good nut placements abound in this crack.

Location

Starts in the broken area on the right side of the "hole" between the two Black Rose area slabs and continues up the left side of the slab.

Protection

A few medium cams and small to medium nuts. Chain anchors.

Photos

Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
I think the start to this route warrants a 9+ or 10a rating. Felt pretty stiff to me for a 9. Aug 20, 2014
Andrew Seegmiller
Orem UT
 
Andrew Seegmiller   Orem UT
 
Once you get over the small overhang at the start the pro is absolutely bomber. fun little climb. pulled off a massive choss block on it the other day though. still a little dirty near the top. huge flakes you climb on give a creepy feeling to it. Mar 13, 2010