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Routes in Glacier Point Apron - Right

Angel's Approach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Apron Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Apron Jacked T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Balance Bitch T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Balance Boy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cold Fusion T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Edge of Token T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless War T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Garden's Edge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Green Dragon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Green Dream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lonely Dancer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Micro Maze T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mr. Natural T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Point Beyond T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Point Beyond Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slamdance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Tom Higgins et al
Page Views: 1,651 total, 16/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Jun 9, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron Details
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Combined with "Point Beyond Direct" and "Point Beyond", this route is the equal of "Goodrich Pinnacle." Clean and pure slab climbing!

P1 - (5.9) - follow the bolts upwards. About half of these were replaced in 2008. As you approach a large solution hole either traverse right (easier), or tag the hole and then traverse right. Belay at a two-bolt anchor near an overlap.

P2 - (5.8) - more friction up the left edge of some flakes. Move up to a passage between two opposing thin flakes, right of the major overlap. There is decent finger-sized gear here. Continue up the flake to the right to another two-bolt anchor.

P3 - (5.7) - more friction up and right to Lucifer's Ledges.

Location

Start by getting to the Point Beyond. Left of the Point is a water groove. Just to the right of the groove is a line of bolts heading up towards Lucifer's Ledge.

Protection

Mostly bolts (about half of which were replaced by the ASCA in the summer of 2008), but you will also want nuts and cams to 2".

Photos

Ryan K.
 
Ryan K.  
 
Quality route. Protected well at cruxes. There are 25-30 ft traverses between the last bolts and anchors on pitches 1 and 2. 5.7 or 5.8 if you go the proper way. R rating in those sections. Oct 13, 2015
jplaut  
Although this route is technically not runout enough to warrant an "R" rating, it should be noted that the first bolt is around 25 ft. above the belay and a fall before clipping it would likely result in decking on the ledge. And, after that, the bolts are not very close together, maybe 15ft. apart at least. Be very confident on 5.9 slab before attempting. Oct 24, 2012