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Routes in Glacier Point Apron - Right

Angel's Approach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Apron Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Apron Jacked T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Balance Bitch T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Balance Boy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cold Fusion T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dr. Feel Good T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Edge of Token T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless War T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Freezer Burn T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Garden's Edge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Green Dragon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Green Dream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lonely Dancer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Micro Maze T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mr. Natural T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Point Beyond T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Point Beyond Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slamdance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Son Of Sam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mark Spencer 1990
Page Views: 2,025 total, 15/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Mar 7, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron Details
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Cold Fusion is a good mixed route of bolts and gear with the crux being located on the first pitch.

P1: Follow bolts up a steep slab angling left, this is the crux. (5.10c)

P2: Climb a gear protected corner straight up to a small overhang. Pull the overhang and continue past a bolt to the anchor. (5.9)

P3: Follow another bolted pitch to a ledge and anchor. (5.10b)

Location

This route is located on the west side of Glacier Point. Approach from the abandoned dump site at the farthest east end of Curry Village. There is a huge 5.0 corner just to the left of this route, look for the bolts on the first pitch. Rap the route to descend

Protection

Quickdraws and a standard rack of stoppers and cams up to 2" or 3". All the anchors have bolts

Photos

Ryan K.
 
Ryan K.  
 
The first pitch is classic! This route is a great way to access Point Beyond and Angel's Approach. Mar 30, 2016
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.10c
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.10c
Just did this yesterday, hot and with the route in sun, after first doing it in '99. Take a small cam (blue alien equivalent) to protect the move to the first bolt. First pitch is sustained slab & dime edges for about half the pitch. Second pitch is heavily vegetated, but climbing along the arete edge and using the crack closest to the arete for pro works well. This short pitch take good cams in the 1" range and is no harder than 5.8 Third pitch has a short crux right off the belay and quickly eases. Belay at the ledge on a station to the left. A rap (barely with a single 70m, better with two 60s) takes you to a flat sandy ledge directly below the station. A double rope rap from here will put you onto a 3rd class scramble off (part of the approach for Harry Daley route). Walk down 3rd class to climber's left or downclimb 4th class on climber's right. Apr 12, 2007
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
I thought this was a fun, well-protected route. Apr 2, 2007