Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Glacier Point Apron - Right

Angel's Approach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Apron Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Apron Jacked T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Balance Bitch T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Balance Boy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cold Fusion T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dr. Feel Good T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Edge of Token T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless War T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Garden's Edge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Green Dragon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Green Dream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lonely Dancer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Micro Maze T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mr. Natural T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Point Beyond T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Point Beyond Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slamdance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Son Of Sam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Galen Rowell and Gordon Webster
Page Views: 3,207 total, 32/month
Shared By: Alexey on Nov 2, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


56 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron Details
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Wide 4' crack between leaning flake and main wall with good feet all the way. After about 110 feet - you'll find good set of new bolts.
If you continue from there to Mr Natural it is better to climb one more short approach pitch.
If you going to climb from Apron Jam bolts to the top of Mr. Natural you have to have at least 70m rope- it will be 230 ft pitch or even more.

Location

Right facing flake Just below splitter Mr Natural.

Protection

Single from green alien to #4 Camelot. Plus #4 and #5 Friends.

Photos

Matt Glue
Boulder, CO
Matt Glue   Boulder, CO
Fun climb! With walking you can easily get by with 2x BD #4s, mostly double rack below that. A #5 is really nice too, if you don't want to run out the start. Oct 18, 2017
Ed Henicle
Santa Rosa, CA
 
Ed Henicle   Santa Rosa, CA
 
I really liked this climbed. We did it as an approach to Mr. Natural, and took two #4's and a #5 - leap frogging them down low. I climbed past the bolted anchors up to the tree for shade and comfort - phew - what a work out!

Came back and did the route again in Sept - no hang dogging this time - love this route! May 29, 2014
Evan Riley
San Francisco, CA
 
Evan Riley   San Francisco, CA
 
Great lie-backing practice. You can reach the tree for a stellar 180' pitch which serves as a great approach to Mr. Natural. Gear is doubles from 0.3 - 4 and a single #5. More gear beta below.

Don't be afraid to burn the big gear down low, up higher you can sink smaller cams. I walked a 4 and 5 up until the crack narrowed and then ended up carrying those boat anchors to the top. Apr 15, 2013
Mareko
San Francisco
 
Mareko   San Francisco
 
If you want to practice offhands to a layback, this is great training. I walked a #5 about 15 feet then placed a couple of 4's before it started thinning out.

Oct 1, 2012
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
Burly old school 5.9 liebacking. Sorta felt like Open Book at Tahquitz. A worthwhile approach pitch to Mr. Natural, kind of an intense warm-up if it's your first climb of the day. Nov 8, 2010
Jeff Gicklhorn
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Jeff Gicklhorn   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Agree with the above comment. Good climb on clean rock. Make sure to bring a BD #4 and #5 if you don't want to run it out. Nov 6, 2010
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
 
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
 
The first comment is extremely inaccurate. The smooth and clean corner provides for an excellent wide laybacking experience and, with the addition of the new bolted belay, is a great pitch to do on its own. Oct 17, 2010
squiddo Marc
Mountain View, CA
squiddo Marc   Mountain View, CA
Great route and highly enjoyable. Large gear takes the pain away. May 11, 2010
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
A poor climb, serves only to get to Mr. Natural Nov 3, 2009