Mountain Project Logo

Routes in GPA - Right Side

Angel's Approach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Apron Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Apron Jacked T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Balance Bitch T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Balance Boy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cold Fusion T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dr. Feel Good T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Edge of Token T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless War T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Freezer Burn T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Garden's Edge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Green Dragon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Green Dream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lean Years T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lonely Dancer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Micro Maze T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mr. Natural T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Point Beyond T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Point Beyond Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slamdance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Son Of Sam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bruce Morris & Mike Hernandez 1979
Page Views: 209 total · 19/month
Shared By: phylp on Dec 3, 2017
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron Details
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

There are two cruxes to this route. The first is an 11a slab move kind of right off the ground to gain access to the first pitch crack. (It's possible this can be avoided by starting up the 4th class ramp and traversing right into the crack but I'm not sure as I did not do it that way). The rest of the crack is moderate with some 5.9 at the top of the crack, where it peters out and you have to do a little face climbing to the ledge. Belay at the ledge (gear). The second pitch is a straight up crack - for about 100 feet. Very, very thin with the crux around 1/2 way up. End at the same ledge as Apron Jam.

Location

This crack is to the Left of Apron Jam and to the right of the 4th class ramp.

Protection

Tiny to 1/2", but it is quite protectable. Lace up that tiny gear.

Photos

- No Photos -
phylp
Upland
  5.11a
phylp   Upland
  5.11a
I personally thought the protection on this route was good since I was able to place a lot of it, but I did not fall on it, and I was only 125 lbs, so it's hard to say what would happen if one fell. With tiny gear, you of course run the risk that the gear will break (tiny brass nuts and the smallest wires- microcams had not been invented when I did this route). It seems as if one would be able to toprope the very fine 10d pitch from the rappel anchors at the top of Apron Jam. Dec 3, 2017
Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA
Bruce Morris   Soulsbyville, CA
FA: Bruce Morris, Mike Hernandez 1979 Mar 23, 2018
phylp
Upland
  5.11a
phylp   Upland
  5.11a
Thank you for the info, Bruce. I have made the correction. Mar 24, 2018

More About Dr. Feel Good

Printer-Friendly