Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dan Goodrich and Bill Loughman, 1955 FFA Howard Sturgis and Ron Harrison, 1959
Page Views: 2,496 total · 20/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Jun 9, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron Details
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

The route generally follows right facing dihedrals/flakes for two pitches, ending just left of Point Beyond.

P1 - (5.8) - A number of variations are possible for the start of this pitch. Older route descriptions (i.e. Roper 1971, Meyers 1976) have you follow the traversing ledge from Monday Morning all the way to its right hand end and then climbing up into the left-angling flake system. Reid indicates climbing up from the belay anchor, past a bolt, and across the face into the flake system. There are now at least 4 bolts (3 fairly new) that allow you to stay on the face longer before moving over to the flake system (see beta photo). In any event, this little bit is the crux.

Follow the flake system up until it is possible to move left to a belay from fixed threaded webbing and a couple of cams.

P2 - (5.7/5.8) - Move straight left toward the next flake system to the south. A cam protects the belay, and you quickly reach a newer bolt. This is the crux.

Once over to the next flake system you again have choices: follow the main flake system up (Meyer, Reid), switch to a flake further left as you near the ledges at the top (Roper), or head left out of the flake system and follow modern bolts up to the belay ledge. Belay at a two-bolt anchor.

If you are climbing just "Point Beyond", there is a short 3rd pitch that take you up to the "summit" on your right.

Location

Point Beyond can be approached either by first climbing Monday Morning Slab by any of various routes and then traversing right on 3rd classes ledges about 100 feet to a two bolt anchor, or (recommended) by climbing up Point Beyond Direct.

Protection

Nuts and cams to 3".

Photos