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> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley S Side
> I. Glacier Poin…
> 6. GPA - Right Side
Point Beyond
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.4 from 19
votes
Routes in 6. GPA - Right Side
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Anchors Away T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Angel's Approach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Apron Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Apron Jacked T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Balance Bitch T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Balance Boy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cold Fusion T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dr. Feel Good T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Edge of Token T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Endless War T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Freezer Burn T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Garden's Edge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Green Dragon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Green Dream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lean Years T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lonely Dancer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Micro Maze T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mr. Natural T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Point Beyond T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Point Beyond Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Slamdance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Son of Sam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Dan Goodrich and Bill Loughman, 1955 FFA Howard Sturgis and Ron Harrison, 1959 |
| Page Views: | 3,648 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Doug Hemken on Jun 9, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron
Details
According to Yosemite's website in 2016, Glacier Point Apron is open to climbing, but the Park Service does not recommend climbing there due to recent and ongoing rockfall.
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The route generally follows right facing dihedrals/flakes for two pitches, ending just left of Point Beyond.
P1 - (5.8) - A number of variations are possible for the start of this pitch. Older route descriptions (i.e. Roper 1971, Meyers 1976) have you follow the traversing ledge from Monday Morning all the way to its right hand end and then climbing up into the left-angling flake system. Reid indicates climbing up from the belay anchor, past a bolt, and across the face into the flake system. There are now at least 4 bolts (3 fairly new) that allow you to stay on the face longer before moving over to the flake system (see beta photo). In any event, this little bit is the crux.
Follow the flake system up until it is possible to move left to a belay from fixed threaded webbing and a couple of cams.
P2 - (5.7/5.8) - Move straight left toward the next flake system to the south. A cam protects the belay, and you quickly reach a newer bolt. This is the crux.
Once over to the next flake system you again have choices: follow the main flake system up (Meyer, Reid), switch to a flake further left as you near the ledges at the top (Roper), or head left out of the flake system and follow modern bolts up to the belay ledge. Belay at a two-bolt anchor.
If you are climbing just "Point Beyond", there is a short 3rd pitch that take you up to the "summit" on your right.
P1 - (5.8) - A number of variations are possible for the start of this pitch. Older route descriptions (i.e. Roper 1971, Meyers 1976) have you follow the traversing ledge from Monday Morning all the way to its right hand end and then climbing up into the left-angling flake system. Reid indicates climbing up from the belay anchor, past a bolt, and across the face into the flake system. There are now at least 4 bolts (3 fairly new) that allow you to stay on the face longer before moving over to the flake system (see beta photo). In any event, this little bit is the crux.
Follow the flake system up until it is possible to move left to a belay from fixed threaded webbing and a couple of cams.
P2 - (5.7/5.8) - Move straight left toward the next flake system to the south. A cam protects the belay, and you quickly reach a newer bolt. This is the crux.
Once over to the next flake system you again have choices: follow the main flake system up (Meyer, Reid), switch to a flake further left as you near the ledges at the top (Roper), or head left out of the flake system and follow modern bolts up to the belay ledge. Belay at a two-bolt anchor.
If you are climbing just "Point Beyond", there is a short 3rd pitch that take you up to the "summit" on your right.
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