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Routes in Glacier Point Apron - Right

Angel's Approach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Apron Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Apron Jacked T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Balance Bitch T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Balance Boy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cold Fusion T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Edge of Token T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless War T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Garden's Edge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Green Dragon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Green Dream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lonely Dancer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Micro Maze T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mr. Natural T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Point Beyond T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Point Beyond Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slamdance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dan Goodrich and Bill Loughman, 1955 FFA Howard Sturgis and Ron Harrison, 1959
Page Views: 1,998 total, 19/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Jun 9, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron Details
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The route generally follows right facing dihedrals/flakes for two pitches, ending just left of Point Beyond.

P1 - (5.8) - A number of variations are possible for the start of this pitch. Older route descriptions (i.e. Roper 1971, Meyers 1976) have you follow the traversing ledge from Monday Morning all the way to its right hand end and then climbing up into the left-angling flake system. Reid indicates climbing up from the belay anchor, past a bolt, and across the face into the flake system. There are now at least 4 bolts (3 fairly new) that allow you to stay on the face longer before moving over to the flake system (see beta photo). In any event, this little bit is the crux.

Follow the flake system up until it is possible to move left to a belay from fixed threaded webbing and a couple of cams.

P2 - (5.7/5.8) - Move straight left toward the next flake system to the south. A cam protects the belay, and you quickly reach a newer bolt. This is the crux.

Once over to the next flake system you again have choices: follow the main flake system up (Meyer, Reid), switch to a flake further left as you near the ledges at the top (Roper), or head left out of the flake system and follow modern bolts up to the belay ledge. Belay at a two-bolt anchor.

If you are climbing just "Point Beyond", there is a short 3rd pitch that take you up to the "summit" on your right.

Location

Point Beyond can be approached either by first climbing Monday Morning Slab by any of various routes and then traversing right on 3rd classes ledges about 100 feet to a two bolt anchor, or (recommended) by climbing up Point Beyond Direct.

Protection

Nuts and cams to 3".

Photos

Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.
 
Austin Archer   Bishop, Ca.
 
My first 5.8 lead in the valley."..memories..." Sep 14, 2013
jplaut  
The first pitch is very fun. I definitely recommend staying on the face, as the moves are memorable and well-protected. The second pitch starts out with an exciting friction move, but then decreases greatly in quality, following up either mungy/grassy cracks or runout face (I found 2 bolts in about 40 ft. here, one which was old and rusty. Definitely a bold lead). A good climb for the most part, but not outstanding. Oct 24, 2012
Rodger Raubach
  5.7+
Rodger Raubach  
  5.7+
I climbed this route in September, 1980 with Harry Burr and Greg Ervin: We followed the Roper guidebook directions to the "summit" of Point Beyond. For added "spice" we included the Harry Daley route on Monday Morning as our start. The climbing overall is very enjoyable and is perhaps one of the easier ways of "getting high" on Glacier Point Apron. Our climb was before the advent of "sticky rubber," and was probably a bit more challenging due to that fact. A very fun climb! Mar 16, 2011