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Angel's Approach

5.9 PG13, Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 2.9 from 8 votes
FA: Tom Higgins et al
California > Yosemite Nation… > Yosemite Valley > Glacier Point A… > GPA - Right Side
Access Issue: Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron Details
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Combined with "Point Beyond Direct" and "Point Beyond", this route is the equal of "Goodrich Pinnacle." Clean and pure slab climbing!

P1 - (5.9) - follow the bolts upwards. About half of these were replaced in 2008. As you approach a large solution hole either traverse right (easier), or tag the hole and then traverse right. Belay at a two-bolt anchor near an overlap.

P2 - (5.8) - more friction up the left edge of some flakes. Move up to a passage between two opposing thin flakes, right of the major overlap. There is decent finger-sized gear here. Continue up the flake to the right to another two-bolt anchor.

P3 - (5.7) - more friction up and right to Lucifer's Ledges.

Location

Start by getting to the Point Beyond. Left of the Point is a water groove. Just to the right of the groove is a line of bolts heading up towards Lucifer's Ledge.

Protection

Mostly bolts (about half of which were replaced by the ASCA in the summer of 2008), but you will also want nuts and cams to 2".

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Randy decided to ditch his shirt and the pack.  Naturally the clouds rolled in soon thereafter.
[Hide Photo] Randy decided to ditch his shirt and the pack. Naturally the clouds rolled in soon thereafter.
Randy on P2
[Hide Photo] Randy on P2
From left of "Point Beyond", up the slab, then cut right.
[Hide Photo] From left of "Point Beyond", up the slab, then cut right.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Although this route is technically not runout enough to warrant an "R" rating, it should be noted that the first bolt is around 25 ft. above the belay and a fall before clipping it would likely result in decking on the ledge. And, after that, the bolts are not very close together, maybe 15ft. apart at least. Be very confident on 5.9 slab before attempting. Oct 24, 2012
Ryan K.
 
[Hide Comment] Quality route. Protected well at cruxes. There are 25-30 ft traverses between the last bolts and anchors on pitches 1 and 2. 5.7 or 5.8 if you go the proper way. R rating in those sections. Oct 13, 2015