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Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 2.9 from 8
FA: Tom Higgins et al
> Yosemite Nation…
> Yosemite Valley
> Glacier Point A…
> GPA - Right Side
Access Issue: Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron
According to Yosemite's website in 2016, Glacier Point Apron is open to climbing, but the Park Service does not recommend climbing there due to recent and ongoing rockfall.
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Combined with "Point Beyond Direct" and "Point Beyond", this route is the equal of "Goodrich Pinnacle." Clean and pure slab climbing!
P1 - (5.9) - follow the bolts upwards. About half of these were replaced in 2008. As you approach a large solution hole either traverse right (easier), or tag the hole and then traverse right. Belay at a two-bolt anchor near an overlap.
P2 - (5.8) - more friction up the left edge of some flakes. Move up to a passage between two opposing thin flakes, right of the major overlap. There is decent finger-sized gear here. Continue up the flake to the right to another two-bolt anchor.
P3 - (5.7) - more friction up and right to Lucifer's Ledges.
Start by getting to the Point Beyond. Left of the Point is a water groove. Just to the right of the groove is a line of bolts heading up towards Lucifer's Ledge.
Mostly bolts (about half of which were replaced by the ASCA in the summer of 2008), but you will also want nuts and cams to 2".