Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Tatooine

Force, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hyperspace S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jawa Jam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leia Needs A Lightsaber S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leia's Leash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Midichlorophobia S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Millennium Falcon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phantom Menace, The S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scum and Villainy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spaceballs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Star Destroyer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
That's Not A Lightsaber S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This Is A Lightsaber! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Triumphal Arch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 2,298 total, 22/month
Shared By: Darren Knezek on Apr 28, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


52 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

I really like this climb. It's a sport climb, but feels like a trad route. When you stop and think about it no move feels harder than 5.5. That's as long as you stem up the corner properly. 5.7's on limestone usually aren't this fun or thought provoking. It climbs up and to the right, ending in the right side of the roof.

"Remember, concentrate on the moment. Feel, don't think. Trust your instincts."-Qui-Gon Jinn from The Phantom Menace.

You may feel like leading parts of this climb on cams and nuts. I wouldn't. The start has a corner that would vibrate whenever I struck my hammer to it. The rock to the left was solid, but the corner to the right sounded hollow. At the crux near the 5th or 6th bolt, you pull a roof. Normally I would put the bolt right above the roof for a nice clean fall. The roof sounded hollow but wouldn't budge with a pry bar. That doesn't mean it wouldn't come off in a fall with a cam placed behind it. After placing said bolt I whipped on it a few times to make sure the fall was safe.

Location

This is the large left-facing corner under the huge roof to the right of the large arch.

Protection

7 bolts and anchors.

Photos

Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
It would be very possible to lead this route on gear, and would be quite fun to do so. I'd bring a set of nuts with a few extra mid sized, and a single set of cams up to maybe a #2 C4. You wouldn't use that many, but I think that's what I noticed in the size range. May 30, 2015
If it were granite or sandstone, it would be a classic trad 5.7.

It's not much harder, but it involves unique movements that are rare for the grade on bolted routes. It feels very traditional. Jun 8, 2012
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I've been lead climbing for just two weeks now and moved off of The Appendage and Layer Cakes (some 5.7s and 5.8s)to do this route - which was a lot of fun. I found this to be a great "next route" after spending a lot of time practicing clipping on Appendage's shorter routes. Well worth the approach and a good route for novice lead climbers with some experience. May 4, 2012
Kenny Clark
State College, PA
  5.8
Kenny Clark   State College, PA
  5.8
It seems like this is a little height dependent to be a 5.7/8. I was always able to reach the holds and clip the bolts, but my wife is 5'5", and had to do some technical face moves to get past some parts. Overall, I feel like it's a great climb, with a lot of fun movement on it. Jul 2, 2011
Matt Park  
 
This one is fun but I agree, feels a bit harder than a 7 especially if you don't stem Jun 13, 2011
Dylan Gene
Napa, CA
  5.7
Dylan Gene   Napa, CA
  5.7
Awesome and fun route. Definitely use your stemming skills, then pull over the roof. Jun 16, 2010
Adam Wilson
Provo, UT
 
Adam Wilson   Provo, UT
 
Spoiler alert: work the down pressure! If it feels hard than 6ish, look for a hidden hold, or better feet. May 29, 2009
Eric Godfrey
slc, ut
 
Eric Godfrey   slc, ut
 
Maybe I didn't "stem up the corner properly," because I thought this felt a little harder than 5.7 as well. Very fun for the grade. May 27, 2009
This one is a good warm-up, but seems a little technical in the middle for a 5.7. But that's just my two cents. May 22, 2009