Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 3,014 total · 22/month
Shared By: Darren Knezek on Apr 28, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


73 Opinions

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Description

I really like this climb. It's a sport climb, but feels like a trad route. When you stop and think about it no move feels harder than 5.5. That's as long as you stem up the corner properly. 5.7's on limestone usually aren't this fun or thought provoking. It climbs up and to the right, ending in the right side of the roof.

"Remember, concentrate on the moment. Feel, don't think. Trust your instincts."-Qui-Gon Jinn from The Phantom Menace.

You may feel like leading parts of this climb on cams and nuts. I wouldn't. The start has a corner that would vibrate whenever I struck my hammer to it. The rock to the left was solid, but the corner to the right sounded hollow. At the crux near the 5th or 6th bolt, you pull a roof. Normally I would put the bolt right above the roof for a nice clean fall. The roof sounded hollow but wouldn't budge with a pry bar. That doesn't mean it wouldn't come off in a fall with a cam placed behind it. After placing said bolt I whipped on it a few times to make sure the fall was safe.

Location

This is the large left-facing corner under the huge roof to the right of the large arch.

Protection

7 bolts and anchors.

Photos