Type: Sport, 135 ft
FA: Perin Blanchard 09 May 2009
Page Views: 4,272 total · 31/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on May 9, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

In a location with amazing views and a feeling of great exposure, climb 135 feet through several distinct layers of limestone including several small roofs. Big holds, little holds, and at least one pocket (right where you want it, too). Climb it in one long pitch, or split it up into two pitches.

Start on a small, ugly pedestal and climb through some rough, gray limestone. At a broken ledge the rock changes to brown and gets a bit smoother. Climb up through a short, smooth dihedral onto a sloping ledge with chain anchors. Belay here, or continue up if climbing the line as a single pitch.

Head up and left through a lighter-colored, harder layer of rock that looks almost like marble in places. Arrive at a light gray layer with small holds and work your way through the intimidating, slightly overhanging terrain and over the first small roof.

Continue up a short section of darker gray, lower-angled rock, pull two more roofs on large holds, and arrive at the chains.

Lower off to the midpoint anchors, pull the rope, thread the rope again, and lower the rest of the way.

Location

Located to the right of the brown water streak that splits Tatooine, this route is the second line of bolts to the right of the water streak and starts on a small pedestal between two somewhat-worse-for-the-wear bushes. The hangers are powder-coated dark gray.

The line climbs to the left of the enormous double roofs.

Protection

Single pitch: 17 bolts, not including the midpoint anchors.
Two pitches: 9 bolts and 8 bolts, plus something for the anchors.

Hangers-and-chains anchors at the middle and top.

Photos