Avg: 3.4 from 32 votes
Routes in Tatooine
|Force, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Hyperspace S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Jawa Jam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Leia Needs A Lightsaber S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Leia's Leash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Midichlorophobia S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Millennium Falcon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Phantom Menace, The S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Scum and Villainy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Spaceballs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Star Destroyer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|That's Not A Lightsaber S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|This Is A Lightsaber! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Triumphal Arch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Type:||Sport, 135 ft|
|FA:||Perin Blanchard 09 May 2009|
|Page Views:||3,574 total, 34/month|
|Shared By:||Perin Blanchard on May 9, 2009|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionIn a location with amazing views and a feeling of great exposure, climb 135 feet through several distinct layers of limestone including several small roofs. Big holds, little holds, and at least one pocket (right where you want it, too). Climb it in one long pitch, or split it up into two pitches.
Start on a small, ugly pedestal and climb through some rough, gray limestone. At a broken ledge the rock changes to brown and gets a bit smoother. Climb up through a short, smooth dihedral onto a sloping ledge with chain anchors. Belay here, or continue up if climbing the line as a single pitch.
Head up and left through a lighter-colored, harder layer of rock that looks almost like marble in places. Arrive at a light gray layer with small holds and work your way through the intimidating, slightly overhanging terrain and over the first small roof.
Continue up a short section of darker gray, lower-angled rock, pull two more roofs on large holds, and arrive at the chains.
Lower off to the midpoint anchors, pull the rope, thread the rope again, and lower the rest of the way.
LocationLocated to the right of the brown water streak that splits Tatooine, this route is the second line of bolts to the right of the water streak and starts on a small pedestal between two somewhat-worse-for-the-wear bushes. The hangers are powder-coated dark gray.
The line climbs to the left of the enormous double roofs.