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Routes in Tatooine

Force, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hyperspace S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jawa Jam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leia Needs A Lightsaber S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leia's Leash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Midichlorophobia S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Millennium Falcon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phantom Menace, The S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scum and Villainy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spaceballs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Star Destroyer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
That's Not A Lightsaber S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This Is A Lightsaber! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Triumphal Arch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 135 ft
FA: Perin Blanchard 09 May 2009
Page Views: 3,574 total, 34/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on May 9, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

In a location with amazing views and a feeling of great exposure, climb 135 feet through several distinct layers of limestone including several small roofs. Big holds, little holds, and at least one pocket (right where you want it, too). Climb it in one long pitch, or split it up into two pitches.

Start on a small, ugly pedestal and climb through some rough, gray limestone. At a broken ledge the rock changes to brown and gets a bit smoother. Climb up through a short, smooth dihedral onto a sloping ledge with chain anchors. Belay here, or continue up if climbing the line as a single pitch.

Head up and left through a lighter-colored, harder layer of rock that looks almost like marble in places. Arrive at a light gray layer with small holds and work your way through the intimidating, slightly overhanging terrain and over the first small roof.

Continue up a short section of darker gray, lower-angled rock, pull two more roofs on large holds, and arrive at the chains.

Lower off to the midpoint anchors, pull the rope, thread the rope again, and lower the rest of the way.

Location

Located to the right of the brown water streak that splits Tatooine, this route is the second line of bolts to the right of the water streak and starts on a small pedestal between two somewhat-worse-for-the-wear bushes. The hangers are powder-coated dark gray.

The line climbs to the left of the enormous double roofs.

Protection

Single pitch: 17 bolts, not including the midpoint anchors.
Two pitches: 9 bolts and 8 bolts, plus something for the anchors.

Hangers-and-chains anchors at the middle and top.
Kyle Hollenback
Provo, UT
Kyle Hollenback   Provo, UT
Long climb, great features, exciting exposure. Love this route. Aug 12, 2011
Kenny Clark
State College, PA
  5.10a/b
Kenny Clark   State College, PA
  5.10a/b
Did it today in two pitches, but I would do it again in one single pitch. My new 70m rope had both ends barely on the ground on the rappel.

The roof system at the last set of chains is awesome! Go straight up them, because the holds are very sweet. What a great end to a classic climb! Jul 18, 2011
BJB
Texas
  5.10a
BJB   Texas
  5.10a
I think that this is probably one of the best routes i've ever climbed. Thanks a lot to the guys who built the trail up there. May 27, 2011
Tyson
Seattle, WA
 
Tyson   Seattle, WA
 
The second pitch is as good it gets. We were able to get to the ground on a single 70m. Next time I'm doing it as one pitch. Props to those who put in the hard work on this crag. May 9, 2011
Megan Hansen  
 
It is a bit of a hike to get there but DEFINITELY worth it. The run is still a bit sharp because its new but it will get better when people start doing it more. It was a lot of fun! Oct 4, 2010
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
High alpine? Nov 3, 2009
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.10b
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.10b
This is high alpine climbing at its best. Simply just fun with committing moves and crazy exposure. I want to get high all over again. The ending roofs to a pocket is exhilerating.

TIE a knot at the of your rope! Nov 3, 2009
Great climb, at least up to the first anchor. That's where I stopped.
It's pretty easy up the well protected crux at the top. I'll have to come back and do the whole thing. Oct 18, 2009
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
The wall is west-facing, perhaps even a bit west-south-west. Therefore, in warmer weather you're definitely better off before noon or 1:00pm. Jun 1, 2009
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
Leia's Leash is the first bolted line to the right of This Is Not a Lightsaber. Hangers are dark gray, so they might be a bit difficult to see. Jun 1, 2009
We just visited this area and it was lots of fun. The climbs will be constantly changing for a while, since hand and footholds tend to break off occasionally. We couldn't really figure out the start to Leia's Leash. Where is it in relation to This is not a Lightsaber?

Thanks for all the hard work to put in the trail and put up the routes. May 31, 2009
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
  5.10a
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
  5.10a
A fine line that keeps on giving. Starts with a long stretch of fun 5.7 climbing to a distinct crux. Some stemming helps keep the crux .10a and gets you to the chains. Four star quality climbing continues as you pull the roofs using huge holds, with so much exposure below. The views of the canyon and valley are a free bonus.

Props to everyone who helped make the awesome trail to get up here. May 10, 2009