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Routes in Tatooine

Force, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hyperspace S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jawa Jam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leia Needs A Lightsaber S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leia's Leash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Midichlorophobia S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Millennium Falcon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phantom Menace, The S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scum and Villainy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spaceballs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Star Destroyer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
That's Not A Lightsaber S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This Is A Lightsaber! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Triumphal Arch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Christian Burrell & Jon Bitter
Page Views: 1,334 total, 15/month
Shared By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Jun 1, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Dude...these little magical bugs control everything in the galaxy?! Creepy!

Right side of the Tatooine Wall, just right of Jawa Jam. Start in a trough feature and head up to a bulge. To clip bolt #2 move right a bit further and find a nice clip stance.

Pitch 1 is ok/fun but the really nice stuff is pitch 2! Begin 2 with a steep face left of the belay. After clipping bolt one enjoy a tricky section to a great flake topped by a cruxy bulge. The key hold is hard to see from below so you have to feel around some.

Continue through some fantastic rock and holds to a multi-tiered roof with really nice big holds. Mantle onto a great ledge. Great fun through the finish.

I should add that this was John's first FA effort and he did a great job.

Location

Right of Jawa Jam in an obvious trough like feature to some ledges/bulges.

Protection

P1 7 bolts to chains
P2 8 bolts to chains.

18 draws to do it as one long pitch with a 70m rope.

Photos

John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
  5.9
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
  5.9
Really enjoyed this route as one long pitch with a 70m rope. We tightened two bolts (wedge bolts) that were loose. Watch out for a loose death-block in the white band of rock, just left of the bolt line (can be avoided but be careful). There was another large block lower on the route that could be trundled with a crowbar. So many good long routes on this wall. Well worth the hike. Jun 2, 2013
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.10a
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.10a
The roof is a hoot. May 26, 2011
Dylan Gene
Napa, CA
  5.8+
Dylan Gene   Napa, CA
  5.8+
Thanks for the new route guys. I really liked the first pitch even if it was kind of crumbly in some places. Good ledges for resting. Jun 16, 2010
Jon Bitter
Waco, Tx
 
Jon Bitter   Waco, Tx
 
I'll say it's worth the 3rd star even with a little dirt. Beta photo to follow. 2nd pitch is amazing, get up there! Could be a little harder for shorter people, a few moves required a bit of a reach. Jun 2, 2010
I would've given this a third star but the first pitch is still a bit dirty (just like most brand new lines are). But pitch 2 is so great it is worth it. A few rain storms (like the ones that wont stop this year) should really help. Jun 1, 2010