Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Christian Burrell & Jon Bitter
Page Views: 1,433 total · 14/month
Shared By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Jun 1, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

Dude...these little magical bugs control everything in the galaxy?! Creepy!

Right side of the Tatooine Wall, just right of Jawa Jam. Start in a trough feature and head up to a bulge. To clip bolt #2 move right a bit further and find a nice clip stance.

Pitch 1 is ok/fun but the really nice stuff is pitch 2! Begin 2 with a steep face left of the belay. After clipping bolt one enjoy a tricky section to a great flake topped by a cruxy bulge. The key hold is hard to see from below so you have to feel around some.

Continue through some fantastic rock and holds to a multi-tiered roof with really nice big holds. Mantle onto a great ledge. Great fun through the finish.

I should add that this was John's first FA effort and he did a great job.

Location

Right of Jawa Jam in an obvious trough like feature to some ledges/bulges.

Protection

P1 7 bolts to chains
P2 8 bolts to chains.

18 draws to do it as one long pitch with a 70m rope.

Photos

Christian "crisco" Burrell
PG, Utah
  5.8+
Christian "crisco" Burrell   PG, Utah
  5.8+
I would've given this a third star but the first pitch is still a bit dirty (just like most brand new lines are). But pitch 2 is so great it is worth it. A few rain storms (like the ones that wont stop this year) should really help. Jun 1, 2010
Jon Bitter
Waco, Tx
 
Jon Bitter   Waco, Tx
 
I'll say it's worth the 3rd star even with a little dirt. Beta photo to follow. 2nd pitch is amazing, get up there! Could be a little harder for shorter people, a few moves required a bit of a reach. Jun 2, 2010
Dylan Gene
Napa, CA
  5.8+
Dylan Gene   Napa, CA
  5.8+
Thanks for the new route guys. I really liked the first pitch even if it was kind of crumbly in some places. Good ledges for resting. Jun 16, 2010
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.10a
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.10a
The roof is a hoot. May 26, 2011
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
  5.9
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
  5.9
Really enjoyed this route as one long pitch with a 70m rope. We tightened two bolts (wedge bolts) that were loose. Watch out for a loose death-block in the white band of rock, just left of the bolt line (can be avoided but be careful). There was another large block lower on the route that could be trundled with a crowbar. So many good long routes on this wall. Well worth the hike. Jun 2, 2013