Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Christian Burrell & Jon Bitter
Page Views: 1,941 total · 15/month
Shared By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Jun 1, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

Dude...these little magical bugs control everything in the galaxy?! Creepy!

Right side of the Tatooine Wall, just right of Jawa Jam. Start in a trough feature and head up to a bulge. To clip bolt #2 move right a bit further and find a nice clip stance.

Pitch 1 is ok/fun but the really nice stuff is pitch 2! Begin 2 with a steep face left of the belay. After clipping bolt one enjoy a tricky section to a great flake topped by a cruxy bulge. The key hold is hard to see from below so you have to feel around some.

Continue through some fantastic rock and holds to a multi-tiered roof with really nice big holds. Mantle onto a great ledge. Great fun through the finish.

I should add that this was John's first FA effort and he did a great job.

Location

Right of Jawa Jam in an obvious trough like feature to some ledges/bulges.

Protection

P1 7 bolts to chains
P2 8 bolts to chains.

18 draws to do it as one long pitch with a 70m rope.

Photos