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Routes in Tatooine

Force, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hyperspace S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jawa Jam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leia Needs A Lightsaber S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leia's Leash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Midichlorophobia S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Millennium Falcon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phantom Menace, The S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scum and Villainy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spaceballs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Star Destroyer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
That's Not A Lightsaber S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This Is A Lightsaber! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Triumphal Arch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 1,061 total, 10/month
Shared By: Darren Knezek on May 14, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

This climbs a slight corner system with a gorgeous black water streak down its left wall. The rock is of exceptional quality with a little liebacking, high-stepping, big jugs, and a stellar traverse on flat edges.
The lieback section near the start would likely be the crux for most people.
When you get to the penultimate bolt, go left and mantle up on the flat ledge and clip the anchors.
The pitch above through the golden/orange water steak is This Is A Lightsaber!

Location

Locate the huge roof with the right arcing arch. About 75 feet to the right is a long golden water streak up high turning to a black water streak in a corner down low. The black streak is the climb.

Protection

7 bolts plus anchors.

Photos

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I was really having fun on this until the rock quality at the top turned some. It goes from really good and solid to thought provoking and loose. I almost fell when I committed to a jug that had lots of chalk on it; but pulled off in my hand.
I also tossed off a huge block right above the last bolt. There is still another very scary loose/hollow block right at the top that MUST get pried off before it totally kills someone! Oct 24, 2009