Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Tatooine

Force, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hyperspace S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jawa Jam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leia Needs A Lightsaber S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leia's Leash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Midichlorophobia S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Millennium Falcon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phantom Menace, The S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scum and Villainy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spaceballs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Star Destroyer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
That's Not A Lightsaber S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This Is A Lightsaber! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Triumphal Arch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 166 total, 2/month
Shared By: Darren Knezek on Apr 25, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


27 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Millennium Falcon climbs the face to the right of the arch. Extremely technical on beautiful rock. The first crux comes quickly at the 2nd bolt a bulge with no feet. The after two more bolts another even more difficult crux. Just remember: You're a dancer not a climber through this section. Finally, more fun movement to a balancey move near the anchors.

Location

To the right of the arch

Protection

7 bolts plus chains.

Photos

Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.10d
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.10d
Absolutely amazing climb. Wish there were more like this. Super technical, thought provoking moves on tiny crimps and ledges. Crux was getting to the fourth bolt and clipping it. I could not find an easy way to do this. Mar 20, 2016
Aimee Bates
  5.10c/d
Aimee Bates  
  5.10c/d
This route was really fun with great movement. I found plenty hands and feet all the way up. I agree there is some tricky footwork, and a few balancy moves. I wonder how long that really sharp two finger hold in the middle of the route will last : ) That missing could make things a bit harder! Jun 23, 2009
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.10d
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.10d
This one onsighted, I did. Have to agree with Christian, I would, like a 5.10d the route feels when you know where the holds are hiding. Between the 4th and 5th bolts, the crux it appears is. Pretty solid, the rock is, but want to fall on against sharp mineral deposits making it something you would not. The difficult part on this one, the feet are. May 22, 2009
Good handholds throughout. Sequencey and balancey at times.
Great route! Worth the trip to do it. Apr 26, 2009
Just a tiny bit soft for the greade, but still very high quality nonetheless. Lots of foot trickery get you through several difficult sections including one right at the second bolt. While you hands are on pretty darn good holds (often hard to see; very typical for the galaxy area) your feet are on much smaller ones. Often a big highstep is required. I really like routes that are not just all brawn but that take some thought. Apr 25, 2009