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Routes in Tatooine

Force, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hyperspace S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jawa Jam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leia Needs A Lightsaber S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leia's Leash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Midichlorophobia S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Millennium Falcon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phantom Menace, The S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scum and Villainy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spaceballs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Star Destroyer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
That's Not A Lightsaber S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This Is A Lightsaber! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Triumphal Arch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 136 total, 1/month
Shared By: Darren Knezek on Apr 25, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

This route starts on the left side of the wall at the base of the huge right-leaning arch. Climb up to the first bolt and start climbing the underside of the huge arch. Around the 3rd bolt is a tricky little crux getting over a bulge from here on the arch gets a little more narrow and you can pinch it as you make upward progress. After a few more bolts the arch is a traverse to the right more than upward progression. Clip one of the anchors on Millennium Falcon and keep going right past a bolt and then clip one of the anchors on Hyperspace. Again keep going right and up until you end underneath the huge roof on the anchors of The Force. It's only about 75 feet down so you should have some rope left on a 60-meter.
You'll probably only fall on this route if you slip or can't control the barndoor effect. Quite a unique feature! You can see it all the way from the parking lot, so you can point it out to your family and friends and brag how bad ass it was.

Location

The left side of Tatooine. Just climb the arch, you can't miss it!

Protection

13 bolts plus anchors.

Photos

Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Dunno why all the fuss about TR'ing. Just have your partner clean it as you belay straight below the final anchors. It's bolted well enough to where there's never much of a pendulum, much less a Tarzan-death-swing into some other wall.

One of the more unique sport routes I've done in RC. Really enjoyed this one. May 30, 2015
Thomas Holmes
Utah
  5.10c
Thomas Holmes   Utah
  5.10c
Top roping this route is fine.

Have the lead climber leave the draws and climb on the other end of the rope, clean the draws as you go... Sep 29, 2012
YOU'RE GONNA DIIIIEEEEE!!!!! Jul 23, 2011
To back up tyler on this one. THIS IS A LEAD CLIMB ONLY WITH MAJOR POTENTIAL TO SLAM INTO THE WALL ON RIGHT AT HIGH SPEEDS. DO NOT TOP ROPE. When you clean route clip yourself to the rope with a quick draw so you do not swing. Other than that its a really fun route. No real crux just one spot with a balance issue. Jul 22, 2011
BJB
Texas
 
BJB   Texas
 
Related advice to what Tyler said: as you are cleaning the route on your way down, I would leave the last clip, pull the rope through, and then just climb up and get it, otherwise there is potential to take that same big swing.
This may be common sense for some of you, but i really didn't expect the swing to be as bad as it was, so consider yourself warned. Jul 11, 2011
Tyler Slack
Eagle Mountain, Utah
Tyler Slack   Eagle Mountain, Utah
Think twice before climbing this after your buddy lead it for you. You'll take a whipper and there is an angry wall to your right ready to meet you. If it's not your head it'll be your foot or an elbow that it will claim. I'm just glad it wasn't me. Consider this route a lead climb only. Jun 24, 2011